Surfing in Chile!

Trip Start Jan 12, 2013
Trip End Mar 15, 2013

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Flag of Chile  ,
Tuesday, January 22, 2013

I've been surfing a few times now and in truth, I'm still a beginner. What's worse is, that because I haven't been surfing regularly, my endurance for staying in the water is poor. It's tiring surfers have to paddle to get to the breaks and on the way fight through the crashing waves.

The beaches in Chile are almost ideal for surfing. I've been to beach breaks and the waves are fairly consistent. Once in a while a huge set will come in too. I've only caught the smaller waves but have been really happy to get a few, especially considering that I'm still not used to using shortboards (which is what I've been using here). The most famous place to surf is further south in Pichilemu. That's a point break where the best surfers go and where competitions are held.

What I also like is that the water isn't too deep when you're trying to catch waves. The only risk is that wiping out might throw you into the sand, but on the other hand, when you get absolutely exhausted you can stand (instead of float on your board). The main drawback is that the water is on the cold side and requires the use of a wetsuit. The good thing is that there aren't sharks or jellyfish floating around, like they might be in Florida. The bad thing is the wetsuit is a bit of pain to put on and off and tends to collect sand and smell easily so it must be rinsed properly. Additionally, the wetsuit restricts movement and makes it slightly harder to paddle. Personally, I don't mind it because I feel like I have some armor against what might randomly be in the water.

After a few more sessions, I hope to be able to catch waves easily and be comfortable with the shortboards. And if possible, continue to practice in Cali or somewhere with a beach. =)
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