Not Even Squirming

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  Parakou, Benin
Saturday, July 16, 2005

"God is on his throne, and he's not even squirming."

Jim, our Interim Benin-Togo Area Director, in the short time I knew him, seemed to be known for such encouraging and challenging one-liners as the one above. He's a wise man and a bit of a wise guy. I've chosen to title this entry thus and not "Malaria" because I think the former casts the situation in not only a more upbeat but also a more realistic light.

I debated writing and moreover sending this entry. But with two short weeks remaining in my short stay, I figured you wouldn't have time to worry yourselves to death before you saw me safe and sound (sound being a synonym of healthy). At any point in this e-mail, please refer to the quote that opened it, as needed.

Yes, without further heart-stopping ado, despite the daily Doxycycline (which I only threw up once-note to users: TAKE WITH FOOD!), morning and nightly bug repellant application, a super effective "moustiquaire" on my bed and only a few itchy bites (it only takes one), I have malaria.

Now, before you imagine me doubled over in pain, vomiting long into the night (there was that night, but it was unrelated and despite wondering if I would, I clearly survived) or in a cold, fitful feverish state alone in my empty house, don't bother. First of all, I honestly feel like I'm sharing malaria in the same way I've shared other parts of African life, like unannounced visitors, requests for money and motorbike transportation. It's a fact of life and more or less like getting the flu. Everyone I know, without exception, has recently recovered from or is currently suffering the effects of malaria. In fact, a couple hours after writing this I'm coming back to add that I just bumped into a girl who hadn't known I was sick whose reply was, "Ah! It's like a wind of malaria. A gust of malaria and typhoid. All over Parakou." So you see.

Secondly, there are three bits of good news. One, since it's so common, it's also totally treatable with a wide variety of readily available drugs that are cheap and effective. I've taken some. Two, my good buddy Fiona who is a great mom and also a doctor, is always around in case I need her. In fact, yesterday we went together to get me a second test to see how the drugs were working and she decided "what the heck" since we'd been feeling about the same. She has malaria, too. Three, I personally know people who, in the time I've been here, have had a much worse time of it than me. Imagine feeling like you "stood up too fast" only non-stop all day. A weird middle-skull dull headache, weak and tired, aching eyes and dizziness. Mostly I just try to avoid turning my head! Let me tell you, this is not easy when my curiosity is 3-year-old level and I still laugh at every (lightning fast mind you) darting bug-eyed lizard that passes. I've been at work every day and haven't once felt anywhere near miserable.

Thirdly, it's all about context. I decided to share in the hope that people would realize that while malaria should absolutely be respected for the possibly deadly disease it is, it is, in fact, not life-threatening in the majority of cases and a very real part of everyone's life in Africa and other parts of the world. There're big campaigns to get people to use mosquito nets and sprays and stuff, but many people who have access to prophylaxes like I was taking just opt not to (considering the effectiveness...) knowing they can treat it once they get it. FYI, the test took two drops of blood, 500 francs CFA ($1) and the results were in the same day, both times.

On a lighter note, even while having malaria, which does actually make me feel semi-mentally fuzzy-an oddly enjoyable change of pace from the pre-requisite sharpness of grad school-I've become somewhat famous for my cranberry spice bread and today ventured to mango so I might just share some great recipes when I get home! (See-still thinking about food-how sick could I be...)

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