In Italy I Tango with an Old Nemesis
Trip Start
Apr 03, 2007
1
16
17
Trip End
Jul 31, 2007
Treviso,
Italy
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
The first few days I arrived were grand. I was feeling a little fatigued but it didn't seem unordinary. It's so hot here as well. There is actually like a heat warning. Some days it was pushing forty. That's pretty rough. So it didn't seem weird to feel a bit shit. Angelo took me to meet his family and friends. And oh, the rumours are true. The Italians really know how to eat. They eat a plate of pasta as a starter. And drink. Beer, wine, you name it. They have their own wine here called proseco. It is a sparkling wine, very light and very nice. They even have their own version of sangria. It's called a spritz and made with proseco. Lovely. In my first three days I met some really lovely, hospitable, and gentle people. I settled into my really nice hotel, cranked up the air conditioner, swam in the pool and generally enjoyed a slower pace of life. Wine at lunch and naps in the afternoon. Long dinners, delicious food and a really beautiful small Italian town (which by the way is not in Tuscany. I am a bit of an idiot it seems....)
Ahhh then disaster... The throat starts to swell up... and I start to feel a bit crappier. By the next day, the fever had set in. The problem with tonsilitis is that it's not just a (motherfucking) sore throat (sorry but that emphasis is warranted) but there is also flu-like symptoms. Fever, chills, aching arms and legs, all that good stuff. This initally overshadowed the throat so I didn't recognize as soon as I should have what the problem was. Angelo came by like six times hovering over me with a thermometer and clucking away like a worried old lady (which he practically is anyways). Here it is 35 outside and I have the aircon turned off and extra blankets piled on. I refuse food and spend a sleepless night. Too sick to watch tv. Definitly waaaay too sick for Anna Karenina. I couldn't even hold the damn thing up, let alone try and comprehend the endless dialogue.
Day two. My throat is on fire. Angelo stops by. It's his birthday. I'm bitter as hell. He shoves the thermometer at me and I nearly kill him. I tell him "It's tonsilitis, I know it. I need a doctor or I will die." Yes I am a huge baby when I'm sick. But I was suffering. Of course it's sunday. First thing monday I am promised a visit. It seems like an eternity. Can't swallow whatsoever. Spend the day watching CNN and BBC, the only english channels on the television (kath and stacy are laughing now...we watched that in Portugal too). When I can't bear to hear for the fortieth time who won the Golf Tournament in Scotland (bet you don't know but I do, first time for a European to win major title in eight years. Yes, it was that fascinating), I watched the Italian and German movie channels. Everything is dubbed here, so no english sub-titles The trick is to watch something where the plot line is so thin you really don't need to understand the language to know what's going on. I saw a sweet Hilary Duff movie and American Pie Three. I think they were almost more funny that way. All I can think about is "I'm in Italy and THIS is what I'm doing with my time here, what a cruel twist of fate." I send Angelo to the gelato store THREE times (truly the man is VERY patient) for lemon-slurpee thingies and ice cream. I am so hungry I am nauseated. The hotel people inquire after my welfare. Even the gelato man became concerned about me.
So, that evening I get a call. Angelo. The extended Italian family has conferred. Instead of tomorrow morning they have decided it would be best to go to the emergency room tonight. After the birthday party. Ahhh the hospital drive. Off we go. A few of Angelo's relations come along. "Whhhyyyyy...." I whine. "Because they are concerned for you, you are part of the family." "Three days ago they didn't even know me! What the hell is this, the bloody Italian mafia????" He actually had the good humour to laugh. The last this I feel like is smiling and having both my cheeks kissed, but everyone is so genuinley worried for me I don't even have to fake it. Not quite as good as having my own mum but it helped. We arrive at the hospital to find it closed. At night they only see grave cases. I almost weep. I'm feeling pretty grave. Angelo's niece Lucia gets on the phone and much Italian ensues. I have no idea what the hell is going on. All I know is that the thought of going home empty handed is crushing. I know the medecine won't make me feel better right away. But psychologically it might.... a placebo would be just fine right about now. All of a sudden, they are calling my name. They found a doctor who agrees to see me. I feel a bit guilty. It's the middle of the night and all the lights are off in the office. "Don't worry, he has to see you. It's part of the Hippocratic Oath." says Angelo. Ya, right, whatever.
It takes about five seconds to reach a diagnosis. He looks in my mouth and says "Yes, it is tonsilitis." And five minutes later I have the prescription in my hand. "What did Lucia say to that Doctor to make him see me?" I ask Angelo. "Ahhh she probably just flashed him her crotch" he responds to which she screams with laughter. The Italians love to joke about sex. I don't care what she did. I am in the woman's debt forever.
So I get my miracle drugs and go home. It will be two more days before I am up and about again. I watched a lot of crap tv. And cursed the world. Managed a few chapters of Anna Karenina. Bitch alot. It was shit but I owe Angelo ( and La Familia) a lot. They were very kind to me and glad to see me again when I was finally up and about (which was yesterday).
So today, finally, I feel like a normal person. Sort of. It's really hot here. It's eight pm now and I'm sweating. But now that I only have a few days left, I really need to pack it in. We went to Venice today. It's only 20 minutes away by train. I have been there before but I can't believe it was almost ten years ago. I didn't really remember it but as soon as I got there it all seemed so familiar. I even passed the hostel we stayed in. Archie's. Total dump haha. It was a beautiful day but absolutely packed with tourists. We took a boat ride around which I really loved. Great day to get my one millionth sunburn. I have four days left. Tommorow we are going to see the mountains (in the air conditioned car yes yes yes) and then we have another birthday on the weekend. Then monday off I head to wet wet london. And sleepin' in airports (my favourite!) till I leave tuesday. And then we will be communicating the old fashioned way. You remember... like face to face. The end is near, but it aint over till its over.... one last entry, with my excellent and insightful comments on the trip overall, and all its random parts, will greet you the next time you check. Yes, I know, the suspense is killing you.
