Wait...We're in Guangzhou?

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  Hangzhou, China
Friday, September 5, 2008

Our last three days on the mainland ended with a fizzle. It was an informative fizzle about China, but a fizzle nonetheless.

Our problems really began on our last day in Shanghai. We decided to visit an old synagogue. I was both curious to see Chinese Judaism but also hoping to find a neat gift for my mom. Our guidebook does not include Chinese characters and almost all Chinese cannot read Pinyin. We would have to find it ourselves. After two hours of fruitless searching in the dusty, Shanghai heat, we retreated to the comfort of a Starbucks. Defeated but caffeinated, we boarded the train for Hangzhou.

Adam's family visited Hangzhou during their trip to China and loved it. So we had high expectations that were originally met. The city is most famous for a large lake in the middle that provides much needed respite from the grunge of China. After a curry dinner, we began to stroll around the water. Much like the Temple of Heaven in Beijing, the lakeside was inundated with singing groups and dancing.

Perhaps because I was feeling more comfortable with Chinese culture, but more likely because I faced some serious peer pressure, I decided to join in on the dancing. Observing the dance at first, it looked awfully similar to the electric slide. I got excited. All the years of bar mitzvahs had prepared me for this moment. After Adam armed me with the translation of "Can you teach me," I approached a group of girls and did my best. It became quickly obvious that the dance was, in fact, not the electric slide and the countless bar mitzvahs had, in fact, not adequately prepared me. I must have looked like a lanky yeti, stumbling this way and that as I shattered the harmony of the night. Oh well, I had fun. Thanking my teachers, I then rewarded myself with some Dairy Queen.

We woke up the next morning to a torrential downpour. With only a few hours before our flight out of the city, we realized the day was a bust. At first, I was very impressed with the Chinese air travel industry. Everything was clean, efficient, and easy. In fact, security was tighter in China than the United States. They confiscated my 12 ounces of shampoo - something TSA failed to do.  Compare that to the Chinese train system where I was allowed to carry a three-foot sword I bought as a souvenir. The guard manning the x-ray machine had been distracted by a friend and hadn't watched the screen for at least 20 bags. In any case, the airport was nice for two reasons. One, like everything else here, it is a symbol of national pride. But two and more importantly, only the highest elite can afford to spend the extra money to fly. So not only do less people fly, but they expect more than your average American traveler. This is why, I think, the airport coffee shop could set astronomical prices of 80 RMB (11-12 dollars) per drink.

Despite some minor delays due to weather, soon enough it was time to board. A true rarity in China, people actually lined up without cutting and waited their turn. When mine came, the gate agent checked my name on the ticket to a photograph of me on her computer screen (when they got that I am not sure) and motioned for me to proceed. I was a little disappointed to learn the plane was an Airbus and not a Boeing. Oh well, I was on my way to Shenzhen. We planned to take a two hour bus immediately to Hong Kong upon arrival.

The two hour flight went smoothly. We were not charged for any amenities. We were provided a small meal. And even drinks were free. I guess this is what happens when an authoritarian government floats national companies regardless of economic performance. So much for capitalism and its little bag of salted peanuts.  

Flying over our destination, we entered a holding pattern. After about 15 minutes, Adam asked me if we were climbing in altitude. Incredulously looking out the window, I scoffed at such a ridiculous idea and returned to reading my book. One page later, a voice crackled over the PA system and was soon joined in by a chorus of yells from the cabin. I wasn't sure what had happened. It is often difficult to know when Chinese people are angry or happy - either way their voices can sound a little harsh. But this time, they were definitely angry. Many men were standing in the aisles shouting at the flight attendants, who in turn did their best to deflect the verbal onslaught despite knowing just as little as we did.

After several minutes of crazed confusion, we learned we were heading to Guangzhou. No reason given. Thirty minutes later, we landed in Guangzhou and taxied to the gate. But we were not allowed off. No reason given. Thirty minutes later, the stairs were pulled away from the airplane. No reason given.  Thirty minutes later, we took off again and headed back to Shenzhen. No reason given. We landed some two hours late. No reasons ever given. A rumor passed through the cabin that a plane sat disabled on the runway and therefore we couldn't land. But this was a rumor. We never received an authoritative reason for anything. Next time, I'll take my salted peanuts with a side of free information flow.

Because we were so late, we no longer had time to travel to Hong Kong that night. We ended up staying in Shenzhen, the labor-intensive industrial capital of China. Right now, you are probably wearing some sort of clothing article from the city. But beyond the sweatshops, there is little to see. Shenzhen is the dubious part of China you often hear about in the Financial Times or the Wall Street Journal. I'm glad I had to stay night there so I could see it for myself. But I much rather have been in Hong Kong.

In short, we faced several obstacles over the past few days. But in the end, we ended up at our destination: Hong Kong. Unfortunately, during the past week, another more substantial problem has arisen. Political unrest in Thailand has forced us to change our plans. While I feel safe enough to go, the logistics of traveling in a country with arbitrary airport closures and striking bus employees is not very appealing. Especially not when, at any moment, largely peaceful protests can devolve into roving riots. While I'm upset we will not see Thailand, we will be able to spend more time in Cambodia and Vietnam. And when you are on a whirlwind tour of Asia, extra time in any country is a gift.

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