More random things about Central America
Trip Start
Mar 22, 2005
1
16
26
Trip End
Sep 09, 2005
Roatan,
Honduras
Sunday, June 19, 2005
In the meantime.... three months in Central America (mostly Guatemala) and here are some odd things I'm getting used to....
Casual toting of lethal weapons
Seeing people with lethal weapons is just as common as stray dogs and annoying insects. One day in Antigua, after hardly noticing a group a men with enormous Rambo-like guns in their arms walking through the park, I thought to myself "wow.... I have been here too long." These weapons usually take the form of machine guns (or other serious-looking big guns) in Guate (along with the occasional machete) and machetes in Roatan (which, among other things, are used to cut grass). Most often these weapons are being carried by a heavily-armed guard outside a bank or pharmacy or armed car. But, also the following odd sightings:
-- guy sitting on a beat-up couch on the back of a semi-truck with a gun about the same size as him, apparently guarding a whole truck of Coke and Pepsi (this was on route to Panajachel in Guatemala)
-- guys sitting at the Twisted Toucan bar in Roatan, machetes by their side, drinks in hand. The most disturbing part of this is, of course, watching them consume copious amounts of alcohol while said machete is by their side.
-- sighting by a friend: group of friendly ski-mask-wearing machete-toting guys on the streets late at night in Xela in Guatemala. Wouldn't that make you a little uncomforatable? Apparently this is the neighborhood watch that was organized because the police are not effective. They wear ski masks to the gangs don't know who they are.
Washing dishes in cold water...
... really, who needs hot water anyway? This goes against everything that has been ingrained in me since childhood -- you wash dishes in HOT water, as hot as you can put your hands in, and maybe that means you wear rubber gloves. Cold water does not clean anything. Well, apparently it does as I've been washing dishes in Roatan with coldish water for weeks now and they seem to get pretty clean, or clean enough, anyway. Not to mention that you can't drink the water and therefore the dishes are not really "safe" for use until they're dry, but this is one of the many things I try not to think about too much.
What time is it? Who cares....
I'm getting used to time being a general concept/guide, not something to base your life around....Even the guidebooks mention this as something you need to expect/understand/have patience for and I'm starting to really enjoy it. I have never heard anyone from Central America mention anything about being "on time".... not that people are particularly flaky, but if you're supposed to meet at 2, what's 2:15 or 2:30 really matter? If you're having a great conversation with someone, why not stick around there, even if you have somewhere else you're "supposed" to be? I don't need my watch at all, but its a security blanket -- I keep wearing it so I know what date/day of the week it is. The only exception to this was Isabel, who I lived with in Antigua. Every meal was always served within 3 minutes of its designated time or she profusely apologized. But, I think this had less to do with a preoccupation with time than it was about good hospitality.
Also, I'm starting to forget what its like to have a to-do list. I constantly have lists of things to do at home... deadlines for work, calls I need to make, figuring out plans for dinner, what to buy at the store. I'm a little obsessive with the amount of things I write down, but there's an odd sense of accomplishment when they're checked off. Well, forget that, if I have more than one thing on my mental to-do list here, its a little overwhelming. The last couple weeks in Antigua, I did have "things to do" -- namely, booking travel plans. One afternoon, I needed to book airline tickets and tours for Tikal, buy a present for my spanish teacher, drop off my laundry and something else equally simple. All of these things are within a 8-block radius in Antigua, and I honestly was totally overwhelmed by the thought of figuring out how to fit them all into the 5-hour slot between lunch and dinner. This is not to say I didn't do much in Antigua -- I was in class every day and studied all the time. But, that was a constant, these new tasks were unusual and required serious schedule management.
"My husband is across the street...." and other white lies
I'm getting good at politely declining or ignoring the advances/flirtations/compliments from men of various countries.... (of course, anyone who lives in San Francisco knows, you have good practice with this walking through the Mission district.) Highly entertaining are the island guys who make a job of hitting on all the foreign women and my blond hair is like a magnet for them (and its really really getting blond from the sun). They are harmless and its just hilarious to watch their well-honed moves and I can't believe that women fall for this, which apparently they do, all the time. People say the three lies of Roatan are 1) I'm leaving tomorrow 2) I'm not drinking anymore and 3) I love you. That last one is a little sad, but if I had a dollar for everytime I've heard it here (usually from random guys with thick spanish accents when I walk by), my budget would be in much better shape. Similar in Guatemala, where sometimes the men are a little more aggressive but an imaginary husband or boyfriend can deter even the drunkest suitor (I don't really understand this either -- its certainly not for respect of the woman or the concept of fidelity, which seems nonexistent. I think I've concluded that there is some unspoken respect for another man's "property" which is really bothersome too).
Anyway, there's a whole scene around this in Antigua, where a group of Guatemalan guys were always waiting whenever new young women arrived. They have all kinds of sweet compliments and "you're so beautifuls" and come across as really chivalrous which for a little while hides the fact that they have girlfriends in several countries and most likely a wife and/or children in Guatemala. Again, can't believe the women fall for this but, I think for many that's part of "the experience" they're looking for (although, I'm guessing getting an STD is not part of what they're looking for, and, from what I've heard, practically a guarantee in Central America).
A friend met a woman travelling who worked for an NGO dedicated to stopping "female sex tourism." This was surprising to me, as I know there's a lot of effort around reducing the number of men who travel to other countries, mostly SE Asia, for the purpose of having sex with prostitutes (some of who are sold into the industry and/or really really young), but who would have thought enough women are out there on the prowl exploiting men from other countries for sex to justify an NGO? Apparently so (and I'm guessing, especially after seeing How Stella Got Her Groove Back). Caribbean countries are the biggest for this.... and, I remember in Belize we learned that there were guys who made it their job of having wealthy girlfriends from Europe who would fly them around the world and buy them nice clothing. Perhaps this is a "problem" but still, I don't feel too bad for all those guys apparently being "used" for their good bodies and exotic looks.
Carbs, carbs, carbs
I'm eating all kinds of "bad" carbs ... processed flower, white bread, flour tortillas. I avoid white bread like the plague at home but here that is impossible. Of the few foods I miss, one is the "California style" whole grain bread from Alvarado Bakery that does not have a lick of anything processed in it. No such luck here. Even the "wheat" bread doesn't resemble anything whole-grain... it just looks slightly dirty. In general, I really like the food here and haven't even gotten sick of eggs and beans yet. But, I do miss a few things: Trader Joe's almond butter, heirloom tomatos from the farmer's market, big salads without the pending fear of days in the bathroom and sushi. (Oh geez, when did I turn into such a California stereotype?)
Seatbelt? what seatbelt?
Having a car with fully functional seatbelts is a serious luxury. Everytime I get into a car, I instinctively reach for the seatbelt, but I'd say 8 out of 10 times, its just not there. Or, the top part is there but there's no buckel. Or some other malfunction. This on top of the absolutely insane driving practices, and sometimes I wonder how I'll make it out of here in one piece. I had a hilarious exchange with a cabbie in Xela over this topic.... he laughed when I reached for the seatbelt because it didn't work. He says "don't worry -- its not necessary, the roads are safe" I say, "I disagree, its necessary, just not possible...." he says, "its not necessary" I say, "just not possible..." and so this exchange goes back and forth for a while until he admits that, in fact, the roads are not safe, but the seatbelt isn't going to help you anyway. Great. I've heard other people say and I agree: this is one of the reasons for the prominance of religion in Central America (if not simply proof that there's a God) -- if there's not a God, than how is it possible that more people don't die on the roads here?
Cash only, please
I have only used my credit card three times in the last three months and only to buy airline tickets. The ATM is my friend and its comical how frequently they are out of cash, but that's another topic all together. Everything is cash here. You can use your credit card in many places on Roatan, but that means adding about 20-something % Honduran sales tax, so why bother. In Guatemala, it wasn't even an option most places. And, actually, my bank warned me before I came here to keep a tight watch on my card everytime its used (never let someone take it out of sight) because credit card fraud is so common.
Finding new friends
It's amazingly easy to meet people here -- especially other travelers, of course. And, there's something casual and non-threatening about meeting people while traveling that makes it possible to spend 24 hours a day for a week with someone you just met and not question what they want/if they have some agenda/if they are cool enough to hang out with. I think this has something to do with being the "outsiders" and a clear sense of community among travelers and ex-pats. But, why doesn't this sense of community exist more in the US? I think it does, just not among white people. On the bus in San Francisco, the black guys always chat with other black guys even if they don't know eachother, the chinese women always chat with the chinese women, the latino teenagers always exchange greetings with the other teens. But, the white people just get on the bus and mind their own business. Likewise, if a guy sat down next to me at a restaurant and just started talking, I'd probably wonder if a) he wants to sleep with me b) he's wierd or c) all of the above. Here, its just because he wants to talk to someone and 9 times out of 10, has a really interesting story to tell. There's definitely something there that we're missing out on at home.
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