First days in Antigua

Trip Start Mar 22, 2005
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Trip End Sep 09, 2005


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Flag of Guatemala  ,
Thursday, March 24, 2005

My flight from LAX to Guatemala was a good introduction to Central America. Total chaos by US standards-- old women spilling their bags all over the aisles, flight attendents frantically ushering people to their seats and helping shove oversized bags into the overhead bins, children crying, children yelling in spanish, children yelling in English. Half the flight was Guatemalans (I suspect many returning home for Easter) and half the flight Americans heading to Guate or Costa Rica (the next stop).

I tried speaking to the Guatemalan grandmother next to me but sign language has to supplement my lack of Spanish. She tells me airplanes are always too hot or too cold (I couldnt agree more) and she says Guatemala is "muy bonita"... any nervousness about this trip fades away as I remember that in a couple months (hopefully!) I´ll be able to speak with this woman.

The flight from LA to Guatemala city is shorter than I expected -- only 4 hours. Which means only about 3 hours of sleep... I wake up about 5:30 to see the sun highlighting the horizon and tops of volcanos and steep peaks sticking up above the low clouds and fog and mist. A striking image as we land in Guatemala city.

The drive from Guatemala city to Antigua is entertaining itself... Guatemala city is dirty, overcrowded, and falling to pieces. We take fast turns through narrow streets that are shared by old school buses (yes, old american school buses), bicycles, pedestrians, delivery trucks and passenger cars. Everyone seems to think they always have the right of way and at times you can hardly see through the thick smoke that is billowing from many vehicles. Soon, though, we climb out of the city through the hills... the temperature drops, the air gets clearer and eventually we end up in Antigua, an absolutely stunning city. Its almost exclusivley colonial architecture and there are three huge volcanos that circle the city. Cobble stone streets everywhere, lots of gardens, very colorful. Its quite warm during the day but almost San Francisco chilly at night.

I was supposed to have an apartment at the school, but they overbooked (or something) so I´´m with a family this week. The house is nice and only a five minute walk from school and there are three other students there which is nice. But, Silvia, the woman and her son fernando, don´t speak a word of english. Combined with my complete lack of spanish, we´re a great combo. This has led to some entertaining exchanges...At lunch the first day, she brings me a bowl of rice and potatoes and chicken. I tell her I´m a vegetarian, she looks at me oddly, takes the bowl away and brings it back, sans chicken and with a few more potatoes. I try to ignore that everything on the plate has been cooking with the chicken for the last 3 hours. Also, I´m sure that there is hot water in the shower, I just have no idea how it works and dont have the vocabulary to ask. More motivation to learn....

Easter festivities have been going on all week and will be in full swing in about an hour. There are processionals all over town and elaborate carpets made of flowers and sawdust and leaves are laid all over the streets. The churches have elaborate decoration and street vendors lining the blocks outside the churches. They sell everything: fresh mango, cooked food, Live Strong bracelets, mayan crafts, big shiny ballons and a surprising amount of cotton candy.

I´m meeting up with a friend of a friend who´s family lives in guatemala city this weekend and watching the Easter activities here. Next week, I´m volunteering all week with Common Hope ... www.commonhope.org and I´m not sure how much I´ll be online if at all. After that, I promise to post lots of photos.
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