Montevideo - it's not yet changed to Monte-DVD!
Trip Start Jun 15, 2009
133Trip End Jun 14, 2010
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Where I stayed
We made our way off the boat and found ourselves trying to make our way through the port, obviously not designed for pedestrians. We trudged the few blocks to our hostel across the usual broken pavements (although mercifully less dog poo than in BA). If our spirits had been dampened by the rain, the hostel soon changed that as it was clearly a small gem of place.
Later that evening, the rain had cleared and we went out for a stroll. Our hostel is in the old city, close to the docks and originally encircled by walls of which only a tiny section now remains.
Some of the grand houses have been given new lives as museums. For example, the next day we visited a museum dedicated to the Gaucho and Money (which was also showing a collection of record sleeves from the 'golden age of records’). No we weren’t able to get the connection between all these things either!
Other houses in the old town have been restored to illustrate the history and way of life in the early stages of colonisation. Some of these had samples of the splendid furnishings and pictures and eclectic collections of stuff which various donors had given them.
Just a few of the houses have taken new lives such as bookshops, cafes and galleries. A particularly interesting example is the Spanish Cultural Centre. Behind the original façade, now completely painted over, lies a massive and radical reworking of a big house to open up the interior to form several floors of exhibition spaces, multimedia centre, library and of course the obligatory café.
We finally made a visit onto the roof terrace of our hostel and we were very surprised. Firstly to find a large shed type building on the roof which is obviously where the girl who works in the hostel lives. We had seen her going up some stairs near our room but didn’t realise that these steps went up to a living space on the roof! The second surprise was to find a two level terrace with a lookout platform built over the shed!
The Uruguayans seem to keep even later hours than the Argentines. There’s usually a flurry of people coming out to eat after 11 at night and into the early hours. Lots of bars still seem really quiet this late but show no sign of closing so we assume that there is an even later crowd that comes out. We were returning home in the early hours one evening and went past a little bar near us that was just taking the shutters off and opening. We visited a café near the Theatre Solis for a small jazz gig on our final night. The details said 10 o’clock so we arrived then to a fairly empty bar. The band didn’t start until gone 11, when more people were arriving.
We have therefore not been early risers but on our final day we were up early and out and about. Unfortunately, nobody else was and nothing was open yet. We decided to have a coffee but couldn’t find a café open, even the ice cream shops were closed! So we had a last look around the town including some markets and shops we hadn’t visited properly before.