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My First Uzbek Wedding
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Yesterday I had the opportunity to experience my first traditional Uzbek wedding. Michelle's former host family had invited her to their cousins wedding. They live in a small qishloq between Navoi and Samarqand.
We arrived at the bride's house at about 11:00 in the morning. The couple was escorted to an awaiting car with streamers and funny looking centerpiece on the roof. We also got into a car to begin one of the many traditions that play an important part in Uzbek culture. Traditionally the men walk down the streets with long trumpets, announcing the marriage to the town. But today we ride in cars down the streets of the village, honking and flashing our headlights. Children run to the streets to wave to the passing motorcade. Our first stop; a monument to a fallen war hero of the qishloq. It is Uzbek wedding tradition to visit the towns war monument (which every town has) and lay flowers. After a quick photo opportunity we drank Champaign and returned to our cars.
On this particular day our skin met a cool breeze under a cloudless sky. As I like to say "everyday is a perfect day for a wedding in Uzbekistan." Despite the perfect weather I couldn't help but notice how unhappy/unexcited the couple looked. It made me sad. Maybe the wedding was arranged and they have no true love for each other. I learned later that it is Uzbek tradition to not smile on your wedding day. The bride walks everywhere with her head draped down, staring at the ground. After the war monument we continued to a restaurant, not to eat, but to drink Champaign and have another picture opportunity. A few minutes later we were back on the road, cars spread clear across the road into opposing lanes. What a way to attract attention! We turned off the main road and increased our speed down a small dirt road past more mud brick homes. Our next destination: a very small dam, on a very small river. Everyone got out of the cars, walked across the small dam to the other side, posed for some pictures, and got back in their vehicles. By now it was early in the afternoon, and I knew lunch had to be soon.
We ended up right back where we started, the house of the bride's family. A canvas tarp was erected to protect us from the sun and to keep temperatures cool. They had setup a stage up front for the bride and groom and a clearing in tables in front of it for dancing. The men and women were separated and bread and vodka was quickly distributed to all in attendance. About midway through our meal, Michelle and I were asked to come up front and say a few words on the microphone. Now this wasn't easy for me seeing that it was an Uzbek wedding, for two people I didn't know, in a language that I didn't understand, in a town that I had never heard of. After making a short and informal speech I started towards my table. Suddenly Michelle's host sister (who was translating) stopped me, and informed me that I had to do a traditional Uzbek dance. When the music began I tried my best to imitate the things I had seen on the Uzbek television station during the suicide bombings. And, in Uzbek tradition, a line of guests formed to give me money for my dancing. After which they too joined in dancing. The father of the bride gave me a kiss on the cheek, some money, and a big "Rakmant"- thank you!
After everyone was done with their meals I was invited into the wedding chamber to watch as the women prepared a makeshift bed and a sheet hung like a wall between us and the bed. After it was complete, the groom entered in an Uzbek robe and skullcap. He sat on the floor in front of the bed. The grooms friends outside gave money to the lady at the door, who allowed them to enter. Then seven Uzbek food dishes were quickly passed around the room and sampled by the groom's friends. After which they left and the bride entered, draped in a veil. She sat next to the groom and two lit candles were passed over the sheet above their heads three times. After which, one women passed eggs through the sleeves of the man's shirt and robe. This was for fertility and to ensure that they have many healthy children. After which they rest in the bed, and dream about their future.
Meanwhile the wedding party is packing the brides belongings. We drove to the groom's house where her stuff was unloaded as well as trunks of beautiful linen for which she can use to make clothes in the future. The groom's house is where the bride and groom will live, at least for now. The women in the wedding party unpack her clothes and the linens and hang them up around the new wedding chamber. We drink herbal tea and enjoy a rice dish while the clothes are inspected. When the bride and groom arrive the groom's family must give money to the family of the bride. When they are satisfied, they allow the bride to join the groom. The groom and bride then walk three times around three fires while a ceremonial drum is played by a drummer boy. This is an Uzbek tradition that predates Islam. The men, meanwhile, are working hard to prepare special food for the countless number of people that will join them later that evening. When someone is invited to a wedding, it is understood that them and their entire family is invited to attend. This must make planning very difficult.
In the evening the celebration continues with a live band, large stage with lights, and a lot of eating and drinking. The celebration goes on till morning for anyone that can handle it. We were both asked to speak again at this "reception" and join in on the vodka toasts. After which I decided it was about time to get heading back to Navoi seeing that I had work in the morning. I thanked countless people, and found a taxi home. Now I am waiting with anticipation for my next toi. More thumbnails ...
Latest Comments (1)
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that is wondeful! (reply)
Oct 16, 2007 11:17 EST by gulasal
I missed wedding in my country. I missed everything in UZbekistan. But I have to mention that from cty to city ceremony, traditions are very different. Wedding is one of the best days , in most cases, for uzbeks. I really liked this article. But you should visit MArgilan wedding to see real traditional wedding. And it is really different from what u discribed. It is much more better. I have been i... show all
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