The 80s Are Back With A Vengeance
Trip Start
Nov 02, 2006
1
44
Trip End
Dec 19, 2007
Stockholm,
Sweden
Sunday, November 19, 2006
I have been in Stockholm now 2 weeks and, in some ways, have lacked anything to say in my travel pod. Since I'm living here for quite awhile, I don't feel the normal pressure to go see and do everything immediately. So I've done a few touristy things (I don't recommend Skansen, the "outdoor museum" that is also kind of a zoo), but I've also spent time doing normal set-up things like going to the grocery, hardware and department stores. Not really that exciting, but a good way to observe cultural differences. This also means I have not been taking my camera out much, but I'll try to remember it more often.
On the surface, there are not too many differences between being in Stockholm and being in the US. During my 1st week, I felt like the Swedes dressed the most similar to Americans than any other Europeans I've visited over the last 10 years. This isn't that surprising since Swedes are big fans of American culture (and not the evangelical or frat boy culture highlighted in Borat - high five). The love American music, movies, fashion mags, TV shows (even the bad ones), etc. So walking around Gamla Stan (Old Town, where my office is) and Vasastan (my 'hood) or on the tube (T-bana), people looked like they dressed pretty much like they do at home.
But then the weekend came and it became very clear that I dress like bag lady who is wearing someone else's clothing. Men and women wear really tight clothing - not quite the level of Italy or Spain, but pretty close. Everything I own looks like it belongs on someone else - jeans, coats, parkas.
7Eleven Meets Cinderella
Personally, I enjoy breathing...On top of that, when going out at night, the 80s stylings come out. Now, I know that back home the 80s are kind of back in some ways, but this is a complete return to the days of Joan Jett and Full House. Leggings w/ big sweaters: check. Ultra-mini skirts and ankle boots: check. Off the shoulder striped tops: check. Angled/razored, really short haircuts on some girls: check. Tapered jeans & pants: check. Mullets - male and female: check. Why, why, why? I don't know, but I don't mind standing out amongst these stylings.
Enough about clothing. Let's talk stereotypes. I read an interesting book on Swedish culture before arriving and it did not take long for me to learn that it was accurate. In fact, anytime I've been around other native English-speakers (Brits, Americans, Canadians, etc), these observations have become a topic of conversation. On the only website providing Swedish news in English, the discussion board is also filled with these observations.
1) Swedes are reserved. NOTHING I read could have prepared me for how true this is. For instance, people in the office are very nice. But as a friend put it, they don't go beyond. Whereas Ingrid, an American girl, invited me out to dinner the night I arrived and Matt and Erin, an American couple, have already asked me about my New Year's plans, no Swedes have been close to this outgoing. After being surprised that one of the guys in the office invited us to have drinks with him and his old co-workers, I learned he was Canadian...and even though he's lived in Sweden for awhile, he also brought up these cultural differences.
My bldg and tube stop
Anyhow, I've heard that the Swedes will come around, so hopefully that's true. As much as I love hanging out with my fellow English-speakers, I'd like to make some Swedish friends too. I guess I will just have to try harder.2) Swedish manners. On the English-language discussion board, others very passionately call Swedes rude. I'll refrain from saying that because in Sweden, they are not rude - it is just different from how Americans would act.
- Although EVERYONE I have encountered speaks excellent English, everyone chooses to speak Swedish. Not surprising. But they speak Swedish even when I'm sitting in the group and clearly don't know any Swedish. Unless speaking directly to me, Swedish is the language of choice.
- Everyone, male or female, who is holding a door open for someone or for the person coming behind them, is not Swedish. I read about American businesswomen coming to Sweden and getting the door swung in their faces even when their hands were full - this is pretty much true. Swedes fiercely believe in every individual's independence and self-sufficiency and this is a manifestation of that. This belief also includes not giving up seats to the elderly on the tube. Yes, I still hold the door open for the person behind me - I can't help it.
- The Swedish equivalent to "excuse me," is rarely, if ever, used. In fact, last night is the 1st time I heard it since arriving here (except from my American friends who say it even when someone else bumps into them). In the hardware store, I was trying to get around 2 men who had stopped to talk to each other.
My street
There was some room to pass, but not without bumping into one of the men. I said "excuse me" three times to no avail (and, as I said, EVERYONE knows English). Finally, I just went by - when I looked back to say "sorry" for bumping into the guy, he hadn't even noticed. And this is pretty much what it is like on the tube or anywhere else. There is no pushing, shoving and elbowing like on the tube in Beijing or Hong Kong, but it is totally acceptable to not ask people to move slightly, but instead to just bump them. Must be the independence thing again.3) There are beautiful, tall, blond men and women everywhere. Ok, I didn't read this. I just heard it. And this one is only sort of true. I expected many, many more blonds. There are definitely more very blond women than men - but they have dark roots. And I thought I'd be the only brunette in the country... (Incidentally, there are hair salons EVERYWHERE. Every neighborhood I've walked through has an excess number of hair salons and I'm not sure why. But maybe its to maintain the blondes and all the 80s haircuts.) And the population is less homogenous than I expected. In fact, there are enough immigrants living in Stockholm that I have now been stopped 3 times and asked directions...in Swedish! And I am not the shortest adult in Stockholm - woo hoo! And, on average, the people are much more slim than Americans, especially the younger people. I don't think I qualify as skinny here. There are more than enough tall beautiful people here - its just not every single person.
Nature Lovers
Too bad the men seem to prefer either this long, shaggy, kind of dirty-looking, slacker haircut or this long, slicked back, kind of greasy-looking vampire haircut. I am not a fan.The good stuff, though, is that Stockholm is a GORGEOUS city: beautiful and charming old buildings, pretty bridges and lots of water since Stockholm is actually an archipelago. It is also a walking city - it has not been very cold yet, so its been super easy to just wander around. And the tube is great - other than between 10pm and 3am on the weekends - I've never waited for more than 2 minutes for a train. Bars and clubs stay open until 3-5am and there are plenty of places to go. Sodermalm (2 dots over the o) was described to me as the more working class neighborhood. To me, it is where the bars that are more low-key and significantly less snooty are located(plus the cover is more like US15 rather than US40). It is also where O'Learys is - the place to watch American football on Sunday nights. :) Ostermalm (2 dots over the O) is the pricier area to hang out on the weekends. But, strategically placed across from the Louis Vuitton and down the street from Gucci, is the TGI Fridays - it is huge and it is packed on Fri and Sat nights. Yes, I'm serious. Actually, I went last night for a glass of wine and some Oreo Madness - yum yum. There are also plenty of restaurants, though they are kind of pricey. I did find a great sushi place last night - East. It is in Ostermalm, on Stureplan - very hip, good sushi and surprisingly good service (as with the rest of Europe, service in bars and restaurants is hard to get used to for Americans). We spent about US35 each and had food left over. There is also plenty of authentic Italian food. I am still on the hunt for authentic Swedish meatballs and the Chinese food I had (Wok House in Gamla Stan) was mediocre. Al Sarab (Lebanese food in Ostermalm) was good, but WAY too much food and overpriced - good belly dancer though. And the office favorite - tex mex at Ruby Grill in Gamla Stan - not very good and not really tex mex, but I don't have the heart to tell them. :)
Ok, I'm stopping myself now. I need to go to the Coop grocery store to figure out which milk is actually milk and which is this liquidy yogurt stuff that smells so sour it makes me want to throw up a little. (This mistake seems to be common amongst Americans, Australians, etc.) Plus I have the NFL to look forward to tonight - and bar food. Yum!
