Tov Meod
Trip Start
Aug 22, 2008
1
4
Trip End
Aug 31, 2008
Tel Aviv,
Israel
Monday, September 1, 2008
While the awakening was still a bit on the early side for Nina, we quickly packed up our stuff and shoe horned it into the Micra for her final voyage.
Stopping for a last quick breakfast in the Kibbutz's dining hall...we hastily spread our breads and downed the obligatory arab salad while dodging the screaming children who were enjoying a nice vacation with their family at the Kibbutz. Birth Control anyone?
Thankfully done at the Hall of the Screaming Sabras, we jumped into the already hot and stuffy Micra and pushed her out the gates heading Southwest.
Rounding the lake, we drove up through the western mountains of the Galil and pointed the car toward Haifa
Bahai Gardens Haifa
. Less than an hour later, we came upon the lovely port city....seemingly disturbing it as it lazily slumbered on a tall mountain spilling down to the shores of the Mediterranean. Finding a Cherry street spot in the middle of Ben Gurion Avenue, we ditched the Micra and hoofed it up and down one the most "happening" streets in Haifa. After a bit of walking we stopped to admire the the stunning potrait of the Bahai Garden as it worked it's way from the top end of Ben Gurion up the face of Mt Carmel. As many guide books will tell you, this is far and away the visual (and maybe overall) highlight of a visit to Haifa.
Already overheating in the baking sun, we ducked into a tastey morrocan restaurant and had a quick bite before finding the Micra and pointing her toward Tel Aviv.
The drive between the two cities was quite nice. It tales about an hour and can be completed on a small highway, much like PCH in California, that runs mostly along the very serene coastline that separates Haifa from greater Tel Aviv.
After dropping off the car, Nina and I checked back into the Melody and made haste to the Neve Tzedek district so that we could catch a bit of shopping before stores closed for the weekend
Store Front in Neve Tzedek
. Finding Shabazi street, we were delighted to discover one of the cooler neighborhoods that we have ever visited. Founded as the original Jewish district of Tel Aviv in the late 1800's it's narrow streets wind north and south off Shabazi. Featuring a fine mixture of turn of the century and midcentruy architecture, the area is a design hound's dream. In addition, boasting shops of a very local pedigree, the consumer aspect of the experience is right up there with Naka Meguro, Trestavere, and the older versions of the West Village and Abbot Kinney.
For dinner, we had the Gorllia make a booking for us with all the guys. We met up at Zepra, an overly hip asian fusion joint on Yigal Allon street. While it was great hanging out with the guys and hearing about their trip to Rammallah and Bethlehem, I tend to shy away from restaurants that are located in strip malls, office parks or indoor malls. Point confirmed.
After dinner, we made our way to one of the hottest clubs in Tel Aviv, Landen, to celebrate the birthday of Gorilla's good friend (aren't they all?) Assaf. The club, like many of the city's "finest" was also located in shopping center...this time in the deep recesses of the basement. Arriving on the scene, we were greated with a throng of scantily clad mediterranean beauties and muscle bound boys in tight black shirts and pointy shoes.
The security was serious business, as four ex Commandos manned the door and kept a tight watch on the list. Since Gorilla had not surprisginly failed to add us to the list, there was a bit of a to do...until he found Assaf and we were waved in
Home in Never Tzedek
. I have rarely felt so cool. Inside, it was the usual....tons of people, body to body. The club itself was actually done very nicely, with a cozy living room interior and an excellent DJ.
Since we are Ballers in Israel, we were able to secure a choice spot at a table in the VIP room...where the crowd was more manageable. As the night progressed, we were brought bottles of vodka and proceeded to give them the Houdini treatment. Fun night.
The next morning, we woke up as late as possible before making a trip to the Friday flea market in Yafo. We wandered around here for a few hours, admiring the spectrum of Junk to Antiques and did a nice walking tour up to a viewpoint overlooking the Tel Aviv shoreline.
Coming back to the hotel, we changed into our bathing suits and headed to the beach to meet my Cousin Shai. We sat for a while catching up with my awesome cousin but were growing hot as we sat in the son on the crowded beach. When Shai asked if we wanted to go for a swim, we quickly agreed and set out for the gentle Medditerranean before us.
Unfortunately, as we entered the water the experience took a turn for the worse. While the rocky bottom was unexpected, we were shocked to notice ridiculous amounts of trash floating in the water. Thinking this would subside as we got further from the beach, we waded on. Sadly, the situation was no better in the deeper water and we came in shortly after with extreme disappointment
Shop/Apartement - Neve Tzedek
. It was one of the most shocking experiences I have had in Israel and only reminds me how frustrating it is to see people trash the land that they are so passionately engaged in keeping Holy to their people. Shameful...really. After a hot and thouough shower, we went to dinner in Ramat Ha Sharon at the home of my cousin Trudi. We were picked up outside our hotel by her husband Chaim, who entertained us the entire way to the house with stories of his immigration to Israel from Morrocco. He left Morrocco with his parents and 7 sisters around 1948..he was around 14. It took the family 2.5 years to finally arrive in Israel as they were moved from camp to camp in Morrocco, Spain and France. During the trip the family bore another son who subsequently died enroute to the Holy Land.
Since coming to Israel, Chaim has risen through the ranks of the Military and retired among the top ranks in the country. He speaks a handful of languages but prefers to read in French.
He also might be the Israeli equivilent of Al Bundy from "Married with Children". Before we arrived at the house he told us that he would be traveling to Barcelona next week.
'Work or pleasure?" Nina asked
"Work" Chaim Replied
Neve Tzedek
. "I am celebrating 40 years anniversary with Trudi"Then as we pulled up to the apartment, he told us that he is the only man in Ramat Ha Sharon who still lives in the same house with the same wife.
Once inside, we enjoyed a few lovely hours with Trudi, Chaim and their eldest daughter Einav. It was so nice to spend time with family...and to get to know them as an adult.
On Saturday, our last day, we were treated to one of the most special days of the trip. It started when the Rotters had us over to their apartment for brunch. As I have mentioned before, I truly admire Ariel's parents...Gabi and Etty...for their intelligence, drive and ability to balance a dedication to their work with their love for one another and their family. However, after visiting their perfectly appointed apartment in the Basel district, I can say that I now am equally impressed with their style. What an amazing place!
In the evening, we were piked up by my good friend from the South Africa trip: Shulke. Since Shulke is a super secret agent, I have been asked not to use his proper name in these pages
Landed at Landen
. Suffice it to say that our man did well by taking us back to Neve Tzedek where we lingered for hours at Jajo vino, enjoying israeli wine and small plates. Our server, Assaf was a great guy and made sure that our glasses were always full and our bellies satisfied. He even introduced us to the delight of Cava with a squeeze of Lime Juice. Delicious. In a not so rare coincidence...Assaf introduced us to the chef since she was American as well. Turned out it was Deana Linder and I was her senior counselor at Camp Alonim. For this, I received a special goat cheese stuffed date wrapped in prosciuto. Nice.
On the way home, agent Shulke took us for ice cream in Yafo where we finished an intense conversation on the state of Israeli politics and its prospects for peace. Let's just say that we disagreed.
But while I am on the subject, I should say that my general observation is that most Israeli's who don't wear long skirts or three piece black suits to the Beach will tell you that they "want" peace with the Arabs. The most common refrain I heard was that there was no "partner". I can certainly understand why they feel this way, and wholeheartedly agree with what Amanda Krawitz's dad told us in Cape Town...namely that the Palestinians need a Mandela
PD Pours @ Landen
. My only concern...as a Jew, a supporter of Israel...and as an American...is that waiting for a Mandela might be an impossibly frustrating and (some would say) impossible task. It's a valid belief that peace cannot come until your enemy is truly ready, but it is not smart to hold the process until you have a mini messiah to negotiate with. This is expecially difficult in Palestine where the corruption of the Fatah party and the dire economic straits of the people has lead to heavy support of extremists who can at least promise something better in this or the next life.
On a lighter note, we did agree on the need for Israel to improve the tourist infrastructure. Considering the dilapidated nature and outdated design of most hotels...which often charge north of $300/night...it is an obvious point that nobody seems comfortable admitting. Usually, I have found that people go straight to the "We spend more of our GDP on defense than any other country". True...but you are a tourist mecca...and one of the most advanced nation on earth...surely you can remodel your hotels? Or clean up your beaches?
Or even more importantly...as we again agreed...instill some sort of career path or social credibility for working in the hospitality and service industries. While most Israelis are prone to greeting conversation points with contradiction and (to be completely honest here) rudeness....this doesn't work when you are at the front desk of a posh hotel or waiting tables at a fancy restaurant. I can't tell you how frustrating it was to have an argument every time I asked the front desk for a wake up call...or to borrow a fork
The Gang Empties
. No kidding. By the end of the trip I was really sick of it...and even began to exhibit the same traits as a defense mechanism. You can see why it is such a problem!Even our taxi driver, who came to pick us up for the aiport on Sunday morning greeted me by complaining that he had been waiting forever. This kind of attitude will not fly if Israel is to continue the increase in tourism it wants and deserves.
I digress.
All in all, I have to say that this was one of the best travel experiences of my life. Though it was not my first time to Israel, I couldn't have appreciated it more. Doing business with a local company was awesome...and taught me a ton. Visiting the Holy (and not so Holy) places as a more independent and \well traveled adult put so many things into better context. Lastly, being here with Nina was pretty special. Not only because she is special...but because we could experience together yet another fantastic travel experience, this time with places that were extremely important to who both of us are and will be.
Thanks for coming along again!
See you next time!
