A wall, a dome...and all the world's problems
Trip Start
Aug 22, 2008
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Trip End
Aug 31, 2008
Jerusalem,
Israel
Monday, August 25, 2008
As everyone is well aware, this city ellicits a high level of passion from people of all religions and nationalities. While I am generally prone to hyperbollicly amitous expression toward the world's great cities, I must reserve a special designation for the strong feelings I have for this place.
From my last visit, in 1999, I remembered a bustling city full of unrivaled history, ethinic diversity and modern commerce. While none of that has changed in 2008, the historical context seems more clear, the people more real and the colors in the souks a little more vibrant.
We made the trip to Jerusalem via a very interesting taxi ride, which started out very normal...traffic out of Tel Aviv, smooth sailing past Ben Gurion and the desolate fields that fall between the country's most important cities, followed by a bit more traffic as we entered Jerusalem
Nina and the Wall
. Unfortunately, while our driver was well versed in getting from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, he had no clue where he was going once inside the city. With that, we spent a good 30 minutes driving around in circles as he continued to mutter in a heavy Israeli accent..."One more minute". Eventually, we found Yoel Soloman street and we dragged our bags up into the nicely appointed and very new Harmony Hotel. Situated just ten minutes walk from the old city, we did not wait long to make the short walk up the hill to the Jaffa Gate and then down hill again toward the Jewish Quarter.
After a bit of time negotiating the winding roads of the old city, we finally found the Western Wall and Nina dutifully hopped into her "I'm a Shiksa trying to look like an Orthodox woman" outfit....ie...a long skirt and long sleeves.
I hate that look....but I can take comfort in the fact that it has been kept unaturally in style. In reality, it went out of fashion like 1000 years ago. Kind of like not eating pork. (Take that Dad!)
After spending some time in separate areas enjoying the last remaining piece of the second temple, we made our way up to a nice viewpoint over the wall's plaza and read more history about the city and it's famous ancient Temples that once stood on this spot
From David's Citadel
. With a bit more knowledge under our belts and the sun slowly beginning it's decline, we trudged back up the ancient steps of the old city and made our way back to the Harmony. After a quick breather, we set out for dinner at the hard to find (but well worth the effort) "Barood". Here we planted ourselves at the bar and ordered up a feast of simple med-comfort fare and enjoyed a truly excellent and relaxing evening.
The next morning, we were picked up by a van load of good buddies from HBS: Seth, Sean, Ash and PD. Our guide, Shlomi was a 71 year old veteran of 5 Israeli wars and a 5'3" badass. He asked us our pleasure for the day and we all decided that it would involve a visit to Masada and the dead sea.
Driving out of the city, we watched as Jewish settlements and Arab villages gave way to beduoin encampments...within 20 minutes, we had followed the road well below sea level and were surrounded by the great white Judean desert. Hitting the dead sea after another 10 minutes, Sholmi made a violent right turn onto highway 90 and hit the accelerator as we blasted south toward Masada.
After about 30 minutes, Shlomi pointed into the distance and shouted at me..."We are here...this is Masada
The Gang at the Bottom
! You have a Camera, take a picture! What are you doing?!?!" Although I had no intention of photographing the impressive plateau from a distance, I obligingly snapped a few just so he wouldn't jump back into the van and slap me around. Good move...Arriving at the visitor center, we took the cable car up the mountain and followed Sholmi around as he impressed us with his vast knowledge of the site and his ability to easily pick up 50 pound boulders. I shudder to think what he could have done in his prime!
While the history of the battle and subsequent suicide that took place on top of the mountain is always fascinating, it was really effing hot up there. After about thirty minutes, we had pretty much finished all our water and were starting to look like hell. Shlomi relented on the tour but paused long enough to soak Nina with a large dose of King Herod's water supply which was being dispensed near the end of the tour. It was so hot that we were all jealous he hadn't picked us.
Heading down the cable, we were all happy to jump back into the Silver Van and drive to the dead sea for a quick dip in the world's weirdest water.
Claimed
It's cool for a few minutes, but after a while it just stings!Piling back into the van, we enjoyed another crazy ride with Shlomi and nearly kissed the ground upon arriving on firm ground back in the Holy city.
For dinner, we met the guys at the super cool and very tasty "Chakra" where we attempted to order nearly everything on the Hebrew only menu. This restaurant is again highly recommended.
We then spent a few hours having drinks at a local pub with the guys and then headed out to bed. We had another full day in the old city...and they were heading to Ramallah with one of Seth's Pallestinian friends. Can't wait to hear about that trip!
Nina and I woke up and went first to the David Citadel, which is a Byzantine Reconstruction of Herod's Castle. Inside is a great museum that describes the long and complicated history of Jerusalem. I will sum up:
Canaanites live nearby
Jews Conquer and David builds his city, Soloman builds the 1st Temple
Babylonians Conquer and Destroy Temple
Persians (allow Jews to rebuild the Temple)
Greeks
Jewish Revolt
Romans
Byzantines
Muslims
Crusades
Turks
Brits
Israel
With this excellent history lesson, we set out to see some interesting sites that were new to both of us..
Masada
.Mt of Olives
Jewish Cemetery
Garden of Gesthemane
Church of the Holy Sepulcher
We then took the long walk back up the hill to the Harmony where we had a quick rest before heading out to the Mahane Yehuda market. Since we arrived after 9PM, most of the usually lively stalls had closed for the day, but we were lucky enough to find one of the last remaining seats at Mizrahi restaurant, a local joint located in the heart of the market. As it turns out, every Sunday night, the owner sets up tables along the entire row of the market outside his stall and invites a Greek band to play well into the night. We sat for many hours, enjoying excellent food, great music and lively people.
What a fantastic spot!
In the morning, we arose late but made a bee line for the Temple Mount, where the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque are located. While there are many entrances to the mount throughout the old city, only one entrance allows non muslim visitors and is open for very specific hours during the day
1-Masada
. We were excited to be let in through the various security checks and spent the next hour wandering around the Mount, marveling at the amazing buildings and the suprising scarcity of people. For me, it was extremely powerful to standing in this place. since it is probably the most important symbol in the struggle for peace in the middle east. The Mount is said to sit on Mt Moriah....the center of the world and the Jewish Holy of Holies (where God made Adam and Abraham went to sacrifice Isaac)....which is also the place where Mohammed ascended to Heaven during his one night journey from Mecca to Jerusalem.
It's amazing significance was not lost on either of us...and it was probably the highlight of an already amazing trip.
Capping off the afternoon was an excellent meal in the Muslim Quarter at "Abu Shukri". Here we enjoyed some truly tasty Shwarma and the best Felafel I have ever tasted! A must try!
On the way back to the Harmony, we wandered through the Armenian quarter and passed through the Lions Gate...still marked with bullet holes from the war of Independence in 1948
Herod's Palace @ Masada
. We made a quick pass through King David's Tomb and it's convenient upstairs neighbor...the site of the last supper, before visiting the Church of the Dormition...where Mary's Tomb is kept. After another nice rest, we headed back to Mehane Yehuda market where we caught the full action...and picked up some flavorful fruit and sweet snacks for the evenings. Before heading back to the Harmony we stopped back in to see our friends at Mizrahi and enjoyed a slow drink at the bar.
What and amazing day...and an even better week.
On to the Galilee tomorrow!
