The Tango of Buenos Aires
Trip Start Feb 14, 2006
27Trip End Dec 15, 2006
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How is everyone going? When I last wrote I was about to leave Chile and the Torres del Paine and head back into the land of beef and gauchos (cowboys) that is Argentina. On leaving Chile we took another monster bus-marathon to a placed called El Calafate to see the giant More˝o Glacier. This is a huge glacier in Southern Argentina that is famous for 'calving' regularly.
The town of El Calafate was nice in a forgetable kind of way but when we arrived we noticed signs everywhere announcing that the 'GLACIER WAS RUPTURING' and that we needed to go 'IMMEDIATELY'. This had Louise and I somewhat perplexed - huge chunks of ice were MEANT to fall off regularly - that's why we were here, wasn't it? The truth was a little more complex - It requires a fairly long explanation that is undoubtably quite boring so the summary was that a huge Ice Tunnel had suddenly formed that wasn't there before
Anyway, after seeing the Glacier we were planning on heading up the Argentinian coast to the Town of Puerto Madryn where Killer Whales beach themselves to snatch seal pups off the coast. Having recently tried to quit vegitarianism I was ready for a good masacre, Jumanji-style. Unfortunately we discovered that the Killer Whales had moved on to new hunting grounds and the pups were no longer afraid
Buenos Aires, I have to say, has been the most wonderful place I have visited since reaching South America. It reminds me of a city that reached its pinnacle in the 1950s and then forgot that time was still passing. It is kind of film-noir meets Gotham City meets Europe in an amazing composition that somehow works. The joy of watching real Tango on the cobblestoned streets of San Telmo whilst nursing a coffee is a wonderful thing.
And lets not forget the steak. I have been having trouble with the phrase ┤┤No meat please, I┤m a vegetarianĘ? It appears to have no literal Spanish translation excepting an irregular reflexive verb form which is traditionally used to describe physical ailment of the oesophagus. It is not used very commonly.
However, the phrase in English ┤like a fish out of water┤ has a cognate in Spanish - ┤to feel as an octopus in the garage ┤. This fairly aptly describes the current state of affairs of both my Tango classes. Instead of 2 left feet I feel like I have 8 (all left). The movements are fast, aggressive, complex and incredibly beautiful. Most people consider it a lifestyle more than a dance. Although both Louise and I have had the same number of classes we are at vastly different levels. This may have to do with the fact that Louise has about 15 years of serious ballet training behind her whilst I used to pretend I was Michael Jackson and 'moonwalk' in my pyjamas.
At least in Spanish we are on a level playing field
Anyway, I digress.
I hope you are all having a wonderful time back in the lands of Liliput and wherever else you may be and I promise to be more upbeat and chipper in the future.
Lots of love and a big tentacle handshake for all
Squibby the squid