Noches by Candle light
Trip Start Jan 12, 2011
25Trip End Ongoing
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Set on the peninsula of a Nature Reserve, Cabo Polonio is probably more likely to be the place The National Geographic was talking about as 'the' place to visit in Uruguay this year. In order to get to this remote spot, you have to board a large 4x4 truck which then takes you across the sand dunes for 30 minutes before pulling onto the final stretch where the beauty of Cabo Polonio is for all to see. This ride, at the best of times was up and down, from side to side and very bumpy, so hanging on to camera, bag and belongings was a challenge the say the least.
It was our host at El Galope, back near Colonia who had pointed us in the direction of this quiet, almost inaccessible and electricity-less place, which would soon turn into one of the best places we’ve visited to date
It was basic to say the least, but had it’s own charm all the same. We had been told to find a guy called Pancho, who would be our host at the hostel, yet even to this day; Pancho is as mysterious as he ever was. So without electricity or toilets which flush the first time, Cabo Polonio is not a cup of tea for all, but we made it our home for a couple of nights and could have easily stuck around for much longer.
A place without electricity and a beach will certainly attract a certain crowd. By day, day trippers would make themselves at home on the beach and in the small town but by night, the place had a real lure, with the only form of light being that of candles. Walking down through the main strip the dim flicker of candlelight meant making out all but silhouettes was difficult. I’m sure there are not many places in the world visited by people that can boast such an aura.
As you can imagine, not a lot gets done here, or at least very quickly
When we had been in Montevideo, we had met a lovely Chilean couple on their summer holiday. They had a seven-year-old daughter who was always full of beans, running around, from the moment she woke to the moment she slept. We bumped into them again on the beach, just after sunset and then once more when we had sat down for dinner later that evening where they joined us. It was very pleasant talking about the differences between all the South American countries from someone who had visited plenty, but also get the low down on what we were to expect from Chile
Just as the Chilean family said good night and went off to bed, we heard "Hey Chicos" come from the table behind. We turned around to find a group of rather attractive young ladies sitting on the next table. It turned out that they were Argentinian and in fact staying at the same hostel so we got chatting. It is very important when in a country where you do not speak the language to practice listening and speaking, so you can improve all the time. The blog writing was put on hold so we could make the most of practicing Spanish and in exchange, we became the professors of a famous but rather rudely names card game we all like to play from time to time.
There is one great thing about being in a country where you have trouble reading or understanding the language, you can actively ignore signs and rules and then use the excuse that you didn’t understand what they meant. This came into it’s own when we went to check out the sea lions by the lighthouse
James, signing out.