The Nullabor

Trip Start Mar 03, 2007
Trip End Apr 2009

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Flag of Australia  ,
Tuesday, February 26, 2008

We had planned to drive from Esperance to Norseman at the start of the infamous Nullarbour Plain and the start of the 2700km Eyre Highway, camp up for the night and then start the long drive the next day. But once underway we were in Norseman at a relatively early time and decided to make some inroads across the plain.

The plain is one of those mind numbing epic journeys and we were told to expect a whole lot of nothing, but truth be told it wasn't as barren as I had previously thought. The extra shrubbery tried to compensate in vain for the distinct lack of wild life, We had also been told we would see loads of kangaroos but the only Roos we came across hadn't stopped, looked and listened and had seen better days.

We passed through many interestingly named towns before hitting the first "landmark" of sorts, which was the signpost marking the start of 90 mile straight. The straight is one of the worlds longest stretches of straight road and lasts for a mind numbing 145kms. At first its a novelty until about 20kms in and its just becomes tedious to say the least. No bends and nothing to take your interest outside and then our one saviour - the radio blew a fuse and we were left tuneless. Eventually after an hour or so we had a brain wave and hooked up Marks mini speakers to his Ipod, but it was only going to be a matter of time before the batteries died.

We made it a fair distance considering we were originally only going to stop in Norseman and with the light about to fade and the threat of hitting one of the nocturnal Roos at 100km with no bumper bar, we wisely decided to camp just outside of Madura at a lonely, facility-less truck stop. We quickly set up camp on the barren landscape with the smell of decaying carcasses wafting in the air and grabbed a quick improvised meal. Just as the sunset I went off to the road to take a couple of photos. It was a pretty surreal feeling, with the road vanishing into the horizon and not another car in sight. Once back in the tent it was a fairly airy feeling as it felt like some B-grade horror movie where a deluded nut case would appear from the darkness and rip us to threads in our sleep.

Considering there wasn't really much to do at our designated campsite we decided pretty much woke up, put the tents in the car and hit the road. Our next stop was a welcome petrol stop at Eucla and also a chance to replace the blown fuse on the radio and get our offical certificates for crossing the plain - yahoo. Just After Eucla we passed over our first state border and we were now in South Australia. A little further on was the the chance to stretch the legs again and take in the sheer orange hued cliffs of the Great Australian Bight that disappeared into the vast blue expanse of the Southern Ocean. A swift 480km later and after slightly losing our minds we had reached Ceduna which marked the end of our Nullarbor trek.

An Icy cold beer was a must at a local pub before we drove the extra 100km down to Streaky Bay where we intended to stay out of the cars as much a possible.
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