Roma at war

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Trip Start Jun 03, 2008 Previous
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  Rome, Lazio, Italy
Sunday, June 22, 2008

Rome is exhausting, there is too much heat, too many people. Roma also seems to be engaged in a perpetual war with its tourists. Prices are jacked up around all major sites, like the 2 euro bottle of water that costs 30 cents in supermarkets. Guide maps for museums and famous sites are virtually non exist, and despite their steep price audio guides give little info, all so that the visitor would hire a guide, and thus create job for the locals. Entrances can be barely marked, hidden rather far away from streets, or both, requiring a good guidebook map, or patient trudging under the unrelenting sun. In retaliation, tourists throng to the city, fill every cafe and every corner of reputed beauty, and stick to their camera flashes no matter what.  Rather symbolizing my change of mentality from seeing people live to seeing how people lived, I have now ditched my phrasebook, replacing it with a guidebook on Roma sightseeing. 

Since Roma has this split personality of ancient millitant glory and more recent papal rule, I split my 2 days accordingly. First day, my visit to Vantican revealed several myths created by my Lets Go guidebook: going early does not help you to get away from the crowd. In fact, all the guided tours start super early. I dutifully did my wait in line before Vantican museum opening as recommended, enjoyed my visit with a vast crowd, only to find on exit that by mid day there is virturally no line at the entrance. Another issue, don't head straight to the Sistine Chapel to see Michaelangilo as the book suggested, it is one way street, so if you want to double back and see Rafael in the previous rooms, have to walk the entire vast museum again. That being said, a glimpse of Michaelangilo's epic work, head cranked, amid the crowd, is a memoral experience not to miss, just like a visit to the balisica of St. Peters that defines papal excess. Remember to wear clothes with a little sleeve and long skirt or pants, in other churches the staff will provide coverup scarves, not here in Vantican, you will have to go to the street and by from one of the many walking-by vendors. Again, jobs created for locals.

My second day was commited to Colloseum, palatine and the Roman Forum, the so called Caesar shuttle. The morning started fun, A couple gladiator-suited guys were taking pics with tourists, joking with each other, and generally have some good time, providing some fine people watching. With their devil-may-care attitude they look more like mercenary soldiers than anything else.  But soon I got defeated by the heat and the confusing orientation in the area. Let me just say that 5 hours later I barely felt my way out, having gazed at ruins like a true archeologist, setting my imagination free on which is what. The piecemeal information I got from eardropping on passing-by guides was helpful, some more than others. Not surprisingly, the private guides for small groups and families seemed most informative. The other great Roman relic is Pantagon, within walking distance. I was a little disappointed to find that it has been converted to a church long ago. But the dome and its round opening in the middle remain magnificent and mystic, no matter what happens under the roof.

To sum up, Rome is most satisfying for those with the been there, seen it mentality. There are great treasure to see, and great potential for frustration to match.In summer, your best friend will be the numerous fountains around town with cool water to drink from, a wide brimed sun hat, and a lot of patience. Look out for good tomato too- a little salad of basil and tomato will taste really good on a hot, hot day. And finally, my stay at the Mona Lisa Hostel was really enjoyable, they have spacy female only dorms, and I had some amazing gals as roomates, highly recommended.

PS. Would you want to sit on a warm leather seat on a sweaty summer afternoon? I think not. So it is really curious that one of the outdoor cafes has all black leather stools. Really stylish, but think of all the sweat smear, the locals apparently enjoy it.

PS two weeks later: I cannot help feeling that I was being grumpy because of the heat, and not giving justice to Rome. Touring its treasure in 2 days under hot sun really was not a great idea :( . One day I will go back and visit again. Wish your Rome experience better than mine.

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