Memories of India & Backwater Pics of Kerala
Trip Start Apr 17, 2001
295Trip End Ongoing
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Where I stayed
Once we got on an early morning cheapo train where there was a fellow sleeping lengthways along an entire bench seat. I simply sat on his feet. When he let out a bit of a yelp, I smiled and said "I sorry. I didn't see you there." He quickly sat up.
Where trains don't go, buses do. They're crowded, inexpensive and great for getting stared at. I came to like the stares - no one pays any attention to me in Toronto. Once, at a nature reserve, we came upon a group of well off locals who'd just seen a pair of tigers at close range. When they saw us, the tigers were all but forgotten. Out came the SLR digitals and snappity, snap, snap. Ellen and I became the focus of attention.
We took a couple of domestic flights. One from Udaipur in Rajasthan to Bombay and another from Bombay to Goa. The flights were each about an hour long and we were fed tasty meals and given warm blankets on both. Try asking Air Canada when dinner will be ready on your next five hour flight across the continent. And you better have a toonie in your pocket if you catch a chill. Air Canada rents their blankets now.
Another travel option in India is to hire a car and driver. This is an expensive way of getting from A to B, but worth considering. We hired a car to take us (11 hours) from Jaisalmer to Udaipur. The roads, some of them four-lane, were so clear that camels, goats, cows and dogs made better use of them than the 'mass of humanity'
As the weeks went on we became more and more able to deal with the hassling shopkeepers. One time we walked by a clothing store where the comical clerk, realizing we weren't going to pay him a visit shouted, "Come into my store and let me rip you off."
Another time, out of the corner of my eye I saw a fellow coming up behind me with bundles of shirts, scarves and jewellery.
I unbuckled my wristwatch. Before the street seller had a chance to utter a word I turned on him and said, "You want buy watch? I make you very good price, only 40,000 rupees." His jaw dropped as he looked at me strangely. "How much you pay? You my first customer today. First customer always bring good luck, for you, only 30,000 rupees. Come, look at my watch. It beautiful Seiko, my friend make in his shop." By now I was speaking loudly as the shirt and jewellery man was almost out of ear-shot.
India is a decent travel destination. For the most part the people are wonderful. The food is fabulous. And they have an infrastructure that works. I'd expected mostly 20- something backpackers. They were there, but the bulk is older folks, often hobbling on weakened knees and hips. It's definitely a vacation spot, not the adventure destination I'd been expecting.
Oh, and the 'stink' I mentioned earlier. The water-filtration plant at Ashbridges Bay a few kilometres east of our home in Toronto can be worse than anything I smelled in India.