Ethiopia Summary

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  Moyale, Ethiopia
Monday, June 27, 2005

Distance travelled in Ethiopia and so far in Africa - 3415km

We actually spent 19 whole days in Ethiopia.

We spent, on average, 1.5 nights and less than 1 day in each place.

We travelled an average of 180km per day, all on public transport.

We may, possibly, be bloody stupid.

Ethiopia Summary

Ethiopia has been the most fantastic place I've ever travelled to. Stefan agrees - me thinks we shall be returning! The people are friendly and hospitable, and wonderfully proud of their history and culture, which is so nice to see.

The geography, whilst sometimes working against us and making journeys very long, has been wonderful to look at from bus windows and from the top of land rovers. The most beautiful place for me was Nechisar National Park.

Even though I'm not religious enough to fully appreciate the wonders of Lalibela, it was truly staggering to think of the love and faith that went into the construction of the churches.

The food has been surprisingly tasty. I'm aware that we are about to enter the land of pap/ugali/tasteless goop, so I can say that I've enjoyed eating in Ethiopia. We were able to eat fish while by the Rift Valley lakes. And we didn't get ill, not even with the kitfo (except that time here in Moyale, but that wasn't the food, it was the unwashed hands of our host...)

For a run down on the food, go to the near-end of this post.

The places we have stayed have been generally clean and nice. Yes, we got bed-bug-bitten in Addis, but we can cope with that. Some of the showers were interesting - the dark room in Yabello springs to mind - but considering Ethiopia is one of the poorest countries in the world...

The toilets... don't even get me started! Ick. I'll leave it at that.

Yes, we got a little bit of hassle, but with the exception of the boys on the way to Harar, anyone who asked us to buy something/give them money etc generally took no, or yelem ('there is nothing'), for an answer.

I guess the main thing that wears you down is the early starts - 4-5am at the bus station.

Useful Amharic

(spelt phonetically)

Hello - salaam

How are you? - denaneh? (spoken to a male)

denanesh? (spoken to a female)

Fine (reply) - dena

Thank you - ameseginalau

Bye - chau

Yes - aw (often spoken as a sharp intake of breath)

No - ay

There is not/ I don't have - yelem

There is - ale (pronounced ah-ley)

How much? - sintano?

1 - and

2 - hoolet

3 - saust

4 - arete

5 - amist

... and 50 cents - ... ka amsa (eg 4.50 is arete ka amsa)

OK - ishee

No problem - chigger yelem

Why? - lemin?

Toilet - shinty bit

Where is..? - yetale..?

House - bet

Coffee - buna

Tea - shai

Bread - dabo

Good (food) - touroono

Tasty - if afotak

Ethiopian - habesha (good for when kids are very vocal with the ´Farengi! Farengi!')

For dealing with persistent beggars:

I don't have - yelem

Go! - hid (used with animals - only use with really pesky kids!)

Ethiopian Wildlife

Pelican - seen in Bahir Dar

Beisa oryx - from bus through Awash NP

Spotted hyena - seen in Harar

Dromedary camel - from bus back from Harar

Guereza/ Black and white colobus monkey - Awassa

Vervet monkey - Awassa

African fish eagle - Awassa

Marabou stork - Awassa

Silvery-cheeked hornbill - Awassa

Olive baboon - Nechisar NP, Arba Minch

Greater kudu - Nechisar NP

Thomson's gazelle - Nechisar NP

Swayne's hartebeest* - Nechisar NP

Guenther's dikdik - Nechisar NP

Warthog - Nechisar NP

Grevy's zebra - Nechisar NP

Vulturine guineafowl - Nechisar NP

* endemic