Laos Wrap Up
Trip Start
Nov 05, 2006
1
55
182
Trip End
Jan 14, 2008
Laos, Lao Peoples Dem Rep
Tuesday, March 20, 2007
Laos, the People's Democratic Republic was the first communist country we visited. It was also one of the three countries that make up Indochina, the part of SE Asia that was once a French colony. Finally, it was the poorest country we have visited to date, so we definitely knew we were out of Thailand.
Topography - We spent most of our time in the NW section of Laos, flying into Luang Prabang and staying at Luang Namtha, Baan Donchai, the Borneo Reserve and Houay Xi. This area enjoys a mixed topography of mountain ranges, jungles and flatlands. The flatlands are where most of the villages are located, and of course all the villages and larger "cities" are all strategically located next to a river. Luang Prabang, the largest city we visited, hugged the Mekong River. The rivers are used for food (fish and river weed), transport, bathing and cleaning. Most of Laos is still undeveloped, and we very much enjoyed (despite the few mishaps) our kayaking down the Namtha River for the day, as the jungle scenery was gorgeous and mostly undisturbed. It was the first country we visited that made us feel like we were in a Vietnam war movie. The jungle looked like the images you see of American GI's making there way through the steamy heat, carry guns and waiting for attack. Once during our hike in Luang Namtha, we had to double check that there hadn't been any fighting in the area, as both of us starting to worry about UXO (unexploded land mines).
Safety - We never felt any need to worry about safety in Laos. While we were at the Gibbon Experience, we left our large backpacks at the guest house in the village of Baan Donchi and never even gave it a second thought. Weirdly enough, there were posters around Luang Namtha for two "missing" persons. One was a western guy, he looked like a backpacker who was last seen walking down the main street in Luang Namtha. The other was an Asian guy, who we found out later used to be a tour guide on the kayaking tour we took. Apparently, some of the locals saw him being pushed into a car and he was been "missing" every since. We speculated that he was either 1) not singing the governments song to the western tourists or 2) did his job too well. Either way, the two posters were a bit scary.
Drink - Two words - Beer Lao. This great beer (and almost the only beer available) was a crisp and refreshing lager. 80 cents would get you a large 24 ounce bottle. Wine, while all over the former French colonies was not readily available in Laos. There was also a second beer, also made by Beer Lao, but it was darker, made with palm sugar and also not readily available. We had a bottle one night in Luang Namtha, and it wasn't bad for a dark beer.
Food - The food in Laos was fabulous. We loved Beer Lao - see above. We also loved the sticky rice, something they have at every meal. You use the rice to pick up the rest of your food. Each person grabs a bit of rice, squeezes it into a walnut sized bite, and then uses it to grab other food on the table. The Laotian table typically includes: 1. sticky rice 2. jeow, or hot sauce 3. a meat 4. a veggie and 5. soup. Very tasty!
Culture - In Laos, as in Thailand, there is an aversion to feet. Therefore, shoes are taken off everywhere, and it is considered quite rude to point your feet at anything. In addition, to put your feet on something is a major offense. We had to catch ourselves numerous times! At one point, when we were booking our guide for our hike in Luang Namtha, there was a German chick sitting on a table with her big, smelly foot placed up in the air perched on the back of the chair in front of her. The Laotian guide talking to her looked like he was going to throw up. So did Laura.
The people are generally very warm and laid back. The pace was slow (especially compared to Thailand and Malaysia) and very easy going. The retailers and market people seem to recognize the economic value of the tourist; therefore they were always very helpful. However, when it came to price, they asked for the stars. Bargaining is a given at the markets, and as a westerner there is a whole separate pricing structure for you versus the locals.
In the villages, things were pretty free and easy. Kids ran every where, some three year olds lugging 6-month olds, some half dressed, most of them naked. There were always "free-range" animals as well - pigs (more like boars really) running around, followed by baby pigs, chickens, baby chicks, roosters, and a couple of dogs. The children did not seem to be impressed with the baby pigs or baby chicks, as they were just the circle of life and soon to be dinner.
Another weird note - the cars were all Toyotas (usually fancy 4 wheel drive) or Kolaos. I did not see Kolaos anywhere else but in Laos!
Cleanliness - In generally, Laos was pretty clean, but that is probably due more to the fact that people are too poor to own anything and/or buy products (like cookies and chips) that generate trash. The tourist trade is probably the biggest problem, with massive piles of empty plastic water bottles seen in all the restaurant and guest house areas.
Cost - Laos was easily the cheapest country we have visited. The exchange rate was 10,000 kip to $1. The best room we've had to date was in Luang Namtha, and cost a mind boggling 50,000 kip a night. Our meals were anywhere from $1-5 total, including drinks (Beer Lao, of course). Bus tickets were anywhere from $4-8 for a minimum of a six hour ride.
Manners - Generally, the people in Laos were laid back and quite generous with their smiles. Manners were not even an issue. Even the guy sitting right in front of us, on our dusty, bumpy and winding bus journey to Baan Donchi threw up (motion sickness? hung over?) very quietly so as not to disturb the other passengers!
Urban Design - The larger cities definitely reflect the French influence, with large boulevards and colonial architecture. The villages, to some degree, reflect the best in urban design - mostly out of necessity versus planning. The villages included dense housing, public spaces shared by all inhabitants, and river fronts used as amenities and gathering places. Alright so maybe that's stretching it a bit in terms of urban design, but the village still remained a very public and community oriented development.
Fashion/Shopping - Laos is too poor to really have much "fashion," although the women and villagers still maintain some of the traditional wear and look wonderful. The women wear long sarong style skirts, with classic silk tops. The school children wear uniforms of blue pants or skirts and white tops. These ubiquitous kids can be seen walking together in packs, carrying plastic bags full of ice and a cool drink which they sipping with straws.
