City by the Bay

I was prodded awake by the bus driver as I arrived on the outskirts of Santiago I could faintly make out the skyline and towering mountains above through a thick shroud of smog. That with the idea of going to another big city and the newfound heat of central Chile made my stay in Santiago last about ten minutes before I was on the first bus to the coastal port city of Valparaiso, only about 120 km´s to the northwest.

Naval Headquarters

A morning fog, as opposed to Santiago's smog, greeted me and after dumping my pack at a Chilean lady's hospedijea despite the sickly sweet smell of vomit that permeated the hallways (hey the price was right) I decided to explore the city. Valparaiso was once the main port of entry for the entire South American pacific coast in the days before the Panama Canal. After the canals constriction the city lost a great deal of its importance and grandeur, but the working port has retained a real blue-collar charm from those bygone days. I took a harbor cruise on a rickety old fishing boat laded with Chilean tourists and there were enough life jackets for all but one. That one being me. Sure let the gringo drown right? The City is built into a series of undulating hills that are connected by dozens of ascensores (funiculars) going in every direction to get people for the docks to their homes. The city reminded my of a fusion of the old time charm of Quebec city fused with the industrial grit of Pittsburgh both with their respective funiculars.

Valpo Bay

The old area adjacent to the port is filled with old colonial architecture and now filled with today's modern conveniences as well as a big fish pier which despite the less than pleasant aroma granted me the best damn shrimp empanada (or empanada period) that I have ever had. As one goes up into the hills retaining walls are covered in huge murals and the homes (whether humble shacks or crumbling mansions) are built with corrugated iron giving the neighborhood a feel as though you are walking amongst an arctic frontier fishing town. The homes have also been painted with every color off the artist's palette and as you look into the hills it is as if you are looking into a kaleidoscope.  At night the hills appear as though they have been draped in thousands of strings of Christmas lights.  The photogenic city and its maze of streets could be explored for days despite the fact that I have never had so many birds use me for target practice (all the more initiative to do some laundry).

Naval Headquarters Plaza

About 10 km´s down the road is Valpo´s sister city of Vina Del Mar which lacks the inherent charm of Valpo with its modern feel and scrubbed clean facade, though a nice enough beach town. For an urban beach, the water and sand were surprisingly clean though almost comically packed in the late afternoon (the mist doesn't really clear up until about 1 anyways). The cold current and big waves that break right on shore make for some tricky swimming, but I couldn't resist what I believe was my first dip in the pacific waters of the western hemisphere.

As the expenses of Chile continued to climb, I hoped on a bus to once again cross the Andes towards Mendoza, Argentina.

Valpo Plaza

The Bay

Pelican Boat

Pelican Boat 2

Pelican Boat 3

Rolling Hills of Valpo

Valpo from the Pacific

Boats in the Bay

Fire!

Bluecollar Buildings of Valpo

One of dozens of Funiculars

Valpo

Colors of Valpo

Colors of Valpo 2

Valpo Smokes

Corrugated Iron Colors of Valpo

Chorillo!

Funicular 2

Beaches of vina Del Mar

Beaches of vina Del Mar 2

Beaches of vina Del Mar 3