crossing colombia

cartegena appeared  lovely to us. everything that people had said about its captivating colonial nature was true.   the old city of cartegena reeks of 400 years existence.  there is a fortress like a wall around this area and enormous colonial buildings converted into hotels.   the waterfront was being prepared for the miss colombia contest.  as we walked around, the stiffling equatorial heat bore down and even jason relented to shopping the air conditioned stores to cool down.   the one church we wanted to go into was shut tight.  the bones of san pedro claver are kept in a glass coffin behind the alter (oliver plunkett anyone?)

crossing colombia

we realized quickly that colombia is huge in comparison to the small countries of central america and decided to get a move on.   outside of the walled city, the underbelly of cartegena rears up and quickly moves from upper to lower class and then slum.  the bus station is clear out in the thick of poverty and we are quickly reminded of where we are. 

stuck in the bus station

the bus ride to medellin was frought with problems.  the bus left late and then broke down several times.   while we waited in a town to switch buses, jason ordered some quick chicken lunches which turned out to be egg(?) for me and left over dry chicken parts for jason.   however, the bus company arranged for our passage and tickets which greatly impressed us. in the end, we arrived 5 hours late, making for nearly 18 hours on a bus.   this was then followed by a new breed of taxi driver:  to high to reliably work.   though he said he knew the hotel we asked for, he brought us to the club district looking for the "palm club".   like we were going to go in with our luggage?????    we tried again to ascertain if he knew it and we racked up instead a very large bill while he took us deeper into the city after midnight.   we finally had him drop us at a club where there were more taxis and started over.    instead of too high to work, we got someone who didn{t appear to understand a map, directions, an address or street numbers.    in the end, we arrived to find one of our shipmates there too.  

we spent the next day resting in medellin while jason nursed his cold.    we even got good haircuts in spanish.   while we pushed on through cali, pasto, and the border, the dramatic landscape evolved from flooded flats into canyonous highlands of forest and jungle and finally succombed to hillside agricultural fields.    the curvy roads have made for several long travel days.   the buses still pass 2-3 deep on blind uphills.  try to pee during that!

other than the 2 taxi rides in medellin, we have travelled colombia unscathed.   the people have been very nice.  they form lines more or less and we feel less slighted.  we are not rushed or pestered.   and generally we felt safer than in some cities of guatemala and nicaragua.   even the military stops have gone well.   although it is unnerving to be ejected from the bus and checked by somber, well groomed military with M16s, we found it more unnerving to watch a guy on the bus present his revolver and permit from his fanny pack for inspection.    regardless, we would rather see the military presence than not as the roads can be quite dangerous according to the book.   we expected to meet more shakedowns, actually, considering how we were questioned on the streets of panama city.   

as  we climbed to the highlands today, we welcomed the scenery and pleasant climate.  we ar starting to see more ponchos and wraps.  otherwise the dress is western and modern where we have been and the women continue to wear the most impractical shoes----strappy open toed stylettos, no matter the outfit.   the people appear to be a healthier weight in comparison to the heavy statures of central america.   a funny thing that we have noticed since panama:  the manequins in the shops have ridiculously enormous breasts.    it is comical each time we see it but we are reduced to fits of laughter when we try to photograph them.