Majestic Mont St-Michel
Trip Start
May 05, 2007
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Trip End
May 15, 2007
Mont St-Michel,
France
Monday, May 7, 2007
A stop in Cancale had been recommended, and despite high winds and cloudy skies, we entered this little town right on the coast. Far, far away over the water, seemingly floating above the horizon, the distinct shape of Mont St-Michel was visible, a tiny spec in the distance. It seemed improbable that we would ever reach it - and yet, we would drive there in the afternoon.
We parked the car in Cancale, and walked up and down the main street, filled with shops, restaurants, fish markets, and oyster "bars". Going all the way to the edge of the jetty, we bought a dozen fresh oysters. The lady cracked them open for us, and then we stepped away to eat them with much gusto! Wondering what to do with the shells, we were told to simply toss them in the water! Well, but of course!
We stopped at a creperie for a sweet dessert, before heading out in the general direction of Bayeux, where we would spend the night, after our visit of Mont St-Michel.
The scenery of vast, flat green plains on one side, with regular glimpses of ocean on the left, soon brought us closer to Mont St-Michel. What incredible strong, severe, elegant majesty! It loomed ever closer as we drove towards it - but seemed forever unreachable. We eventually drove up the road leading up to the parking lots -- fortunately at low tide.
Mont St-Michel
Leaving the car, we made our way on foot towards the entrance of this medieval, walled village at the base of the church built on top of this isolated island (except for the artificial road, it's still an island). Climbing slowly the 365 steps, flanked by little shops and restaurants emitting wonderful smells, we made our way towards the church. We stopped along the way to admire the view, but also the stunning architecture all around and the amazing engineering feat of having built a massive cathedral on a such a precarious perch, so remote and even now difficult to access. What an amazing sight - and site!
The church at the top, "l'eglise abbatiale", also known as "La merveille" (The Wonder), is truly incredible. Majestic and grave, it has withstood the challenges of the centuries, built originally as an abbey, and later used as a jail (ah, those French revolutionaries...).
Our guided tour was interesting -- the guide was passionate and knowledgeable, the best combination possible! The evolution of the architecture was visible even to non-experts like us -- columns and vaulted arches from different periods clearly distinct from one area to another. Wow...
With some regret at leaving this beautiful place (where a small group of monks and nuns still reside), we made our way back down the steps, stopping for a buckwheat crepe at a patio with a view. A view over the immensity of the low-tide sandy bottom of the ocean, and the plains kilometers away. Can the ocean recede that far, really?
By the time we resumed our drive towards Bayeux, the rain had started, and the skies were dark. We had reserved (from St-Malo) at the Hotel d'Argouges in Bayeux. A little more than we had hoped to pay - but well worth it. A beautful old chateau converted to a comfortable and welcoming hotel, right in the middle of the lovely town.
Despite the rain and generally miserable weather (cold and windy), we walked through town, saw the oldest house still standing, caught a glimpse of the cathedral, and made our way to Le Pommier for dinner. And a lovely meal it was, with rabbit, and duck liver... Ahhhh... Sophisticated and yet unpretentious -- very enjoyable.
We walked back in the rain and darkness of dusk - the town empty, quiet, desolate.
Arriving at the hotel, the rain had finally stopped. Just in time for us to chat outside with a couple from Colorado.
We retired for the evening, still reminiscing about our visit to Mont St-Michel. It had appeared out of nowhere in front of our eyes, and just as quickly, had vanished behind us. Truly a wonder...
