Snow, steam and a good hot bath

Trip Start Sep 23, 2008
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Trip End Nov 03, 2008


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Flag of Japan  , Hokkaido,
Monday, September 29, 2008

I am writing from my comfortable, legroom-rich seat on a train bound for Sapporo, the principal city of Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost major island. This is our first of a number of train trips we will take here. My guess is that the car is which we are riding is  better-than-average, but if the remainder come at all close, we shall be duly impressed, all the more so because we are traveling in ordinary class.
 
After dropping the car in Asahikawa, we checked into our first business hotel. Tiny, but serviceable, I was delighted to discover I could stand up in the step-up-into tiny bathroom. The best thing about the hotel was its Japanese/Western breakfast buffet, which made up for its frequent mediocrity with its great variety.
 
Well stuffed, we then caught the bus to Daisetszan National Park. Arriving in the middle of a glorious day, we headed straightaway to the aerial ropeway which took us to about 6,000 feet where we could walk a couple of miles of trails to views of the snow-covered Asahidake peak. There had been some early snow which had begun to melt in spots, so it was a soggy walk for ill-equipped us. Still, the panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and the lowlands stretching back to Asahikawa were splendid. Reminding us that this is an active volcano were the fumaroles that punctuate the peak, endlessly spewing sulfurous steam.
 
Returning from our hike with cold and sodden feet, we were especially anxious to get to the gender-segregated onsen at the hostel, one inside, and one outside that is hotter. Ahh.
 
We were slowed down the next day by a morning of heavy rain that let up about midday. This gave us a chance at a snow-free hike near the hostel. We expected a cake-walk, but the trail climbed more than we thought and the with the fresh rain forest growth around us we got quite wet again. Once again, it was a delight to to get back for a good hot soak.

Our destination today is an onsen resort located on the shore of Lake Toya in southern Hokkaido. Toya-ko is very popular, so we are expecting the full-on Japanese tourist experience.
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