Shanghai'd in Xi'an and Spoiled in Shanghai
Trip Start
Mar 10, 2005
1
3
24
Trip End
Aug 02, 2005
Xian and Shanghai,
China
Sunday, March 20, 2005
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We said our farewell to Tony, who was a gracious host in Beijing and set out to tackle China on our own (at least for a couple of days). We flew to Xi'an to see the famed Terracotta Warriors, which were constructed for Emperor Qin Shihuang, the first emperor of a unified China in 221 BC. At 13, this guy was paranoid. He not only started construction on the Great Wall, he also spent 38 years preparing his tomb with a batallion of terracotta warriors that he buried to protect him in the underworld. He killed the designers of his tomb after it was completed.
In 1974, some farmers were digging a well and pulled up a terracotta warrior's head (or so our little movie at the site showed), and the rest was history
Army of Chinese Vendors or Terracotta Soldiers?
. So, how do we know these little factoids? Well, here is the story behind the story...We learned one of the downfalls of independent travel is that sometimes you want a tour guide (preferably English-speaking). We spent an afternoon looking for tour companies and finally signed up for the "English Tour" offered by our hotel. The staff assured us that there were 6 stops with English commentary to help us Westerners better understand these Chinese treasures.
So we get on the bus, pull away from the hotel, and start to talk to the guide. He says, "I'm sorry, my English very poor. You buy cheap tour," and handed us a book and some pamphlets about the sights we were about to see. These materials were in "Chinglish" at best.
After five worthless stops, including a museum of root carvings, a burial tomb (big mound of dirt), two museums of relics (reproductions), and a re-creation of a famous Han fight scene (painted on a wall), we finally arrived (a little frustrated) at the Terracotta Warriors. Thankfully, they were fabulous. Three pits have been dug and unearthed the soldiers (pit 1 is the best). Studies have shown that there over 7000 life-size and unique soldiers standing ready for battle
Drum Tower in Xi'an
. It was well worth the trip.So...our recommendation for those who are Xi'an-bound: take a taxi to the Terracotta Warriors in the morning and check out the city sights in the evening.
A surprise favorite among the city sights was the Great Mosque in the Muslim Quarter. It was serene and tranquil in the middle of this ethnic community and still in use today. The antiques market leading up to it was full of chattering vendors as usual, but once inside it was quite peaceful. We also ate dumplings in the Muslim Quarter soooo full of MSG that our mouths were tingling. We couldn't tell if it was our water or the dumplings at first! Regardless the meal was very good and we wound our way back through the street vendors. We also paid the fee to go up in the Bell Tower in the center of the city. Nice view, but we just missed the musical performance in the Tower as we were late getting there.
All in all, Terracotta Warriors 9 out of 10 but city itself was a 5.
P.S. We would highly recommend getting the airport bus to and from the airport. The Bell Tower is rendezvous point for drop-off and pick-up. Unfortunately we were literally seconds late and missed the pick-up. We ended up taking a taxi to the airport. When our taxi was slowed in traffic due to an accident (a bike crunched under a taxi), our driver drove up on to the sidewalk, stopped the car, moved a few bikes out of the way, and we sped on our way.
Tea for Two
March 17
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In Shanghai, we stayed with our friends Carolyn and Josh, who have lived in the city for seven months on assignment with a major multinational. They have a wonderful 4-story old lane house that is close to everything.
After we got settled at their place, we visited Xiang Yang market that specialized in... hmmm..."reproductions" of some of our favorite European and American products. We paid a visit to Carolyn's pashmina lady and the sweater lady (you will see quickly that Carolyn and Josh have a guy or lady for just about everything!).
For dinner, we walked to a local food court and enjoyed several Taiwanese dishes from a favorite spot of Carolyn and Josh's. For dessert, we tried a place that only served mango dishes.
March 18
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While Carolyn and Josh were at work, they offered us the services of their driver, "Pete"
The Prize Fighter
. He didn't speak any English but we got along just fine. First stop was Yuyuan Bazaar, in the Old Chinese City, for some tea in a traditional teahouse. It took the waiter three minutes of pouring and repouring in order to present Amy's tea. This market had the typical touristy souvenirs, but was built in a very old complex that featured traditional fish ponds and architecture. From there we visited Carolyn's dress lady. Amy picked out fabrics for a silk jacket that she had made in black and red. It turned out great.
After some lunch, we headed to the Shanghai Art Museum, which Amy thought was a bust and Alex thought was just OK.
The Shanghai Museum, however, is a must see. We were a little nervous that exhibits on bronze, jade, and furniture would be a sleeper, but we were wrong. The bronze section, for instance, allowed you to trace the evolution of the art of bronze casting and decorating in China from 4000 BC to the present day. When you go, get the audio tour.
That evening Carolyn and Josh were hosting a pizza and games party for some expat friends. Yes, they DO have Papa John's in Shanghai. The highlight of the evening was when Carolyn's watch guy came over to the house to hawk his wares. He got a little nervous when Alex took a picture of him hawking his Rolexes and Hermes.
March 19
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After a western-style brunch, the four of us strolled through an antiques market that featured ceramic Maos and other favorites. Across the street, there was a pet market, which was loaded with fish, birds, turtles, cats, and dogs. One focus of the market was cricket sales. Apparently, an entire area of the market is cleared and devoted to cricket fighting later in the year.
After a quick fly-by of the Bund, followed by a quick stop to Carolyn and Josh's suit guy for some alterations, we visited a pearl store often frequented by Amy's Dad (coincidently called Amy's Pearls).
In the afternoon Carolyn arranged for us to have massages at her aunt's salon. We both had one hour foot massages and one hour body massages. What a way to recharge after all this shopping! Price = $12 each.
Later in the evening we all went to an expat barbecue, complete with a Weber grill, dogs, and burgers. One friend was shooting a scene of his movie at the party, so we made a few cameos. We met some very interesting people with fascinating stories.
March 20
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We're off to Guilin. It was sad to leave Carolyn and Josh's pad, as the hospitality and accommodations were first rate. Thanks again, C and J, for the wonderful time! More updates soon...(pics to come)
Top 3 for Shanghai
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1) "Pete" -- We loved this guy. Whenever we needed him, we spoke some "Chinglish" into a cell phone and he mysteriously appeared.
2) Shanghai Museum -- bronze does not have to be boring
3) All of Carolyn's "guys" and "ladies" who outfitted us with some fine gifts and products for the road.
