Grasshopper Tasting and theTemples of Angkor
Trip Start
Dec 16, 2007
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34
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Trip End
Jul 09, 2008
Siem Reap,
Cambodia
Sunday, April 27, 2008
After obtaining a visa and crossing through the no man's land of casinos I was in Cambodia. The road to Siem Reap was quite a bumpy journey, a dirt road with potholes the size of lakes, I can't count how many times I flew off my seat and into the air. Driving into Siem Reap was nothing like I expected it to be...the city is full of huge, lavish 5 star hotels...the explosion of tourism in this area can be attributed to Angelina Jolie and the filming of Tomb Raider at the nearby temples (she's almost like a god here).
On the first night I had an amazing dinner of Amok, a traditional Khmer dish. It was chicken done in a coconut curried cream sauce and Khmer spices, it was phenomenal. Dinner was also accompanied by some traditional Absara dancers. It was oddly mesmerizing with the entrancing music, slow movements and vacant expressions.
Bright and early the next morning (and I do mean early, 4:30 early to be exact), I was up to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat. While the sunrise itself was just average, being at Angkor Wat that early had a magical quality. I couldn't believe the sheer size of the temple and grounds, crossing the moat was almost surreal at that time of the day and the reflection of Angkor Wat in the water just added to the early morning experience. The main temples of Angkor were built between the 9th and 13th centuries under the Khmer Empire.
First on my temple list to explore, Ta Prohm. This particular temple is the one used in Tomb Raider and has that whole jungle shrouded in mystery feel to it. It maintains the just stumbled across it appearance because the overgrowth has only been partially removed and only when it posed a threat to the temple. It's amazing you seriously feel like you've just discovered it, kinda like Indiana Jones. The crumbling stones coupled with the overgrown tree roots and vines really gives this temple a mystical feel.
Next on my temple list, Angkor Wat, the focal point of all the surrounding temples. WOW!!! It's apparently the world's largest religious building. Upon first glance I was stunned, the sheer size and the large towers, archways and numerous steep ladder like staircases that seem to lead to the sky were a site to be seen. It was so overwhelming I didn't know where to look first. Walking through the maze like structure and seeing all the well preserved bas reliefs was incredible, I never knew what was around the next corner, the masonry was breathtaking, intricately carved pillars and archways. I think I walked around in awe the whole day.
Although I was a sweaty mess and the sun was relentless I still needed to see the Bayon Temple, the one with the huge stone faces. It was incredible and a little eerie, it started to get a bit overcast at this point which provided the perfect backdrop for exploring this temple. There are over 200 of these large carved faces which are believed to bear a slight resemblance to the king at that time. This temple was really cool with more faces around every corner and amazing bas reliefs as well.
Since it looked like a storm was on its way I went back to town for an early dinner and had another fantastical curry. After perusing some markets I treated my aching tootsies to a massage...although it was a "foot" massage it also included my neck, back and head. It was intense from feet slapping to arm yanking and knees in my back...but I must say I have never felt so relaxed, I actually fell asleep on the chair.
On my last morning I went to the landmine museum. The ride out there in the Tuk Tuk (essentially a moto with a carriage like contraption attached to it) was the highlight of my day. We drove throuh several little communities in the countryside which looked quite different from the city...little huts with lush greenery. The museum itself packed quite the punch...around 3 people every day are still killed in Canbodia from landmines. When the Khmer Rouge was in power they planted millions of them to restrict population movement and there are basically no records of the locations so when Cambodians started rebuilding their lives they were faced with the devastation of landmines. The founder of the museum is an ex child soldier and has dedicated his life to demining but there are still bewtween 3 - 6 million left so it's still a problem.
Before I knew it I was on a bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital.
