Pushing Higher, Pheriche, then Gorak Shep

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  Pheriche, Nepal
Thursday, October 18, 2007

Higher, ever higher, each day the trek climbs.
Sometimes rock steps, sometimes sandy upward paths,
Trees give way to shrubs, then to grass, to rock , to snow.
But snow should just frost the peaks, why are we camping in it?

Pheriche, 4040 meters or 13,200 ft, greets us with
Three inches snow while we 'tea and snack' after our climb.
Luckily porters and sherpas got our tents up before snow hit,
Thus ground under my bag was dry, packs dry in tent, but a cold, damp, night.

A moment to honor the sherpas and porters, they do the work -
I must lift one foot in front of the other, but then I rest:
They carry everything up and pitch tents, cook our meals, bring tea to tent each morning,
Amazing men, always a smile, we know they are cold, tired, but they show us spirit.

A total of 42 support our team of 24, each porter carries two bags of ours,
Yaks carry tents, kitchen and dining tents, tables, chairs; guided by yelling yak men.
Sherpa carries the vital kerosene stoves and fuel, or food, or medical kit.
Guide sherpas carry lights, emergency bags, offer a helping hand, keep us moving upwards.

Now we are truly in high altitude country, the surroundings stark.
Hard to breath, Diamox pills to sleep, sherpas encourage lots of tea drinking,
The reward: God's stunning architecture surrounds us,
A lifetime of views every time my head lifts from trail and turns around.

Pheriche, a treking way station, a cluster of lodges (really just huts),
Stone walled paddocks to pitch our tents in, dribbles of water from streams above.
But most important: the High Altitude Mountain Sickness clinic.
Volunteer doctor gives us stern lecture: monitor your buddy, are you still clear headed?

Passing Pheriche, treking ever higher, comes a moment of reflection and tribute,
Memorial Pass: Stone monuments to those who died above, some simple, some elaborate,
Tribute to sherpa, climber, some years past, all moving, representing lives cut short,
Recent monument to Scott Fischer, fallen guide from 'Into Thin Air' saga.

A night at Lobouche, bitter cold, but blessedly, no fresh snow.
Elevation now 16,000 ft, the reward: sunset rays illume Lhotse, Everest's neighbor.
Gives the mind a chance to concentrate on stunning view, supress grinding cold.
Then another day's struggle and we are at Gorak Shep, ready for our goal.

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