I Think I'm Gonna Like It Here
Trip Start
Apr 22, 2008
1
13
26
Trip End
Sep 01, 2008
Luang Prabang,
Lao Peoples Dem Rep
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Mornings begin at 6 am with one of the most amazing sights I have ever witnessed: alms giving. In the early morning light the sidewalks fill with townspeople (and tourists of course) holding containers of food. In the distance a mass of orange and yellow moves on the horizon like sherbet snake. You suddenly realize that a sherbet snake is ridiculous thought, possibly you are still half asleep or drank too much wine last night, and a mass of hundreds of monks come into focus. Parading down the road in silence their figures take shape and the alms bowls strapped over their should are visible. As they pass the townspeople give handfuls of food into the bowls. These alms will feed the devotees for the day. Its an old practice of the community taking care of its spiritual leaders but is rare in modern times.
Alms
The ritual is a daily occurrence and, as a witness, provides a spiritual awakening that charges you up for the rest of the day (ps its stronger than a double espresso). It also set the tone for our daily activities because in Luang Prabang temples reign supreme and there are several days worth of sites to hop between. Maybe its from growing up Catholic in the suburbs or the conservative dress of New Englanders (think J. Crew galore and someone being considered "edgy" if they wear white after labor day), but the quiet movement of Buddhist monks in their places of worship remains my favorite sight on Earth. Slowly and deliberately all ages (from what appears to be 6 through 100) sweep across the old temples. The long vibrant crimson and saffron robes swaying with the canter of their steps juxtaposes the muted colors of the temples with a startling visual effect. When this stunning visual is put into context by recognizing that these identical activities have been taking place for hundreds of years inside the very enclosure that you have the privilege of visiting and the power of the moment becomes palpable. I find myself completely unaware of the ear to ear grin I've had on my face until someone points out (Kate) that the expression is borderline disturbing, having been plastered on my face without change for the entire day. Without a doubt I'd rather be sporting a creepy perma-smile that would make botox-users grimace with disapproval...that is of course if their frozen faces were capable of grimacing...than have the stress filled furrowed brows associated with the rat race of work.
The second best thing about Luang Prabang, and possibly the cure for my tetanus smile, is that you have to move your face while eating...and eat we did. The bright Laos flavors of lemon grass, tamarind, spring onion, chili and lime fused with French influences make for a dining scene that rivals the top restaurants in San Francisco or New York. Leaving price out of the equation, because no restaurant of this caliber could keep its doors open in those cities when the prices are 8 dollars for your entire meal, if one of these restaurants opened in New York there would be lines around the block. To have countless options with virtually no other patrons was surreal Any headway I had made into getting into shape while trekking was destroyed. And the name of the destroyer was Camembert and truffle tarts.
The town was absolutely incredible and I could have stayed much longer. If I were ever to want to write a book or simply needed to get away for a while I would be hard pressed to think of a more idyllic and peaceful location. Luang Prabang, the little Betty Ford for the soul tucked in the hills of Laos. I'll be seeing you again someday soon.
