Finding Nemo
Trip Start
Aug 08, 2003
1
13
36
Trip End
Jul 07, 2004
Fiji,
Western,
Fiji
Friday, February 13, 2004
Sigatoka is a hive of commerce, produce and splendid Indian signs; I'm not sure I'd be up to the bigger cities, and in fact we have heard bad reports of both Nadi and Suva. Fortunately we were staying on the peaceful Coral Coast, in a place next to the flashy Outrigger resort.
As our first southern hemisphere stop, we had moved into summer; and also tomorrow, so belated happy birthday to Andrew Lowe for the 2nd February that we didn't have! We noticed that the sun is almost overhead at midday, and at night we can see Orion high in the unfamiliar sky, but he is now upside down, having been on his side in Hawaii.
After a couple of very hot days acting as a running buffet for the mosquitoes, we discovered that the beachside bungalows stayed much cooler, and so moved to one that also turned out to be much smarter. (Apparently it had been renovated after the 2001 cyclone, when the fridge had been seen floating out to sea). I don't think I'll get another room (let alone a whole house!) 10 yards from the waves, and certainly not at GBP 33 a night for the two of us! The Aussies and Kiwis tells us we are fortunate to be travelling on the pound, and not on their 'Pacific Peso'. (Although the NZ dollar hit a six-year high just as we arrived...)
So we didn't do much sightseeing, except for a trip to the nearby sand dunes, which included a scramble up a 30 degree slope. Between spraying on Deet and suncream, we made the most of the Coral Coast reef, which fills and empties twice a day like a giant bathtub. In the afternoon the water is hot, unpleasantly so, but catch the morning high tide and the reward is crystal clear cool water, colourful coral and hordes of wonderful fish, just as you would imagine. We particularly like the little green ones that hide when you go near, the boggle-eyed fish that gives you dirty looks, the black and white ones in neatly graded sizes, the blue starfish, and the happily harmless barracuda that had Andy surrounded. We aren't so sure about the four-foot long sea anemones!
Our peaceful days were punctuated by rain, thunder (it isn't the low season for nothing!) and occasional heavy thuds. This is the sound of falling coconuts and explains why it is important not to sit too close to palm trees. Andy had lessons in opening the nuts; if you can hear the milk sloshing it is ok to eat. And no, it doesn't taste like a Bounty bar!
One event we were glad we didn't miss was the local 'lovo' (Feast), which the adjacent village does as a fundraiser for their youth work, and so is a Good Thing. We attended a yaqona (kava) ceremony, concentrating hard on the protocol, and then enjoyed the music, the food, and dancing with the completely adorable children.
We will visit Fiji again (although at a different time of year!) and take away the memory of the friendliest locals we have ever met; and Bula 100FM on our Island Barn radio!Next journal - the New Zealand adventure begins in the new Bluesmobile!
