Bulgaria

Trip Start May 24, 2005
1
17
25
Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of Bulgaria  ,
Tuesday, July 19, 2005

Such a romantic name, and if you look around a bit, a pretty beautiful city as well despite what the natives might say. Beyond that, it is home to perhaps the friendliest, at-your-service hostel in the WORLD. We stepped off the train and onto the platform without any reservations and were met by a guy waiting for a group of Croatians who thankfully had not arrived (probably threw themselves off the train and walked, thinking that might get them here more quickly - train was delayed by a few hours). With utmost grace he ushered us and a few others into taxis, which were then paid for by another hostel staff member who, panting from a run across the road to greet us, helped us with our luggage. After lengthy explanations of where to go, what to see and eat, we were shown the free internet and left until dinner when the hostel prepared free pasta and beer!! Hostel Mostel - you set the standard!

It was surprising the number of people who, around the breakfast table, admitted that coming to Sofia had not been on their original itinerary, but one and all had been pleasantly surprised. But maybe that was the beer/pasta/all-you-can-eat-breakfast talking.

We hooked up with Lily, a former colleague of Eoghan's and lunched in the presence of Sofia's good looking and powerful people, desperately attempting to keep arms stuck to sides to prevent the very unglamorous whiff of our body odour wafting over to neighbouring tables. 5-months pregnant Lily, (suffering a little from her decision to wear all black on the hottest day of the year!) was the perfect hostess, pointing us in the direction of Sofia's must-sees (ornate cathedrals and churches hiding behind the parliamentary buildings and striking out from soviet surroundings, their sweeping cobbled squares defiantly resisting urban creep).

On our one full day we explored the Vitosha hills on the outskirts of the city (which Bill Bryson has apparently written about quite eloquently enough so no need to try here) accompanied by Zack, a young American 'expert' on all things eastern european. We started to get concerned about him when he had talked for two hours without taking a breath. There did come a breif moment's respite as 'the one hundred and one reasons why you should LARVE Hungary' was cut short we skirted round a group of naked ladies, soaking up the rays. But he was in full flow again by the time we met up with the goatherds ushering their flock up the hill in the direction said female grouping.

ANd finally, no account would be complete without a proper feast to report, and here Bulgaria came up trumps.Cabbage-wrapped rice and meat smothered with cream, cooling yoghurt and cucumber soup, and a pudding of plain yoghurt and fresh figs. All served with finesse on a shady veranda. That'll do nicely....
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