Ha Long Bay
Trip Start
Sep 03, 2007
1
174
219
Trip End
Jun 17, 2009
Halong Bay,
Vietnam
Friday, September 12, 2008
We head (slowly) east through the suburbs and then into ever increasing rice fields interspersed with towns, all with the same mix of shops and businesses. We learn that people are slowly becoming more prosperous as businesses and increasing foreign investment develop.
We cross the great Red river, coloured orange by the mud it carries from the hills way in the distance towards China.
Passing through the great areas of rice fields, we see many small cemeteries. The reason is that people are buried in the fields and when their relatives come to work the rice, then their loved ones are nearby. We also hear that the fields are populated with poisonous snakes, particularly cobras, so maybe it's a matter of convenience as well!
After an hour and a half we stop at a marble and tapestry centre, set up to provide employment for disabled people, many of whom are limbless due to the unexploded bombs dropped on Vietnam in the war. The speciality filter coffee is mixed with condensed milk, providing a serious caffeine and sugar burst.
The land has been mostly flat up to now and we see the start of rolling hills, whose reservoirs feed hydro electric power stations, 70% of Vietnam's electricity coming from h.e.p..
In the distance small bumps appear, which grow into groups of tall, single hills and soon we arrive at the port town of 'Ha Long' and its famous bay.
Fast beef
The port area is growing rapidly due to the tourist interest in this region.Transferring to a launch we are taken to a traditionally looking junk, a steel hulled, wooden superstructured boat. There are only three comfortable bedrooms, the en-suite of which is bigger than some of the cabins on our other boats.
Setting sail amongst a small flotilla of similar style but variously sized boats, we head for the group of over two thousand islands which rise steeply from the sea. Lunch is served immediately at a luxuriously set table. Prawns, rice, squid and salad. This is lunch?
We sailed on through the range of islands, some of them towering over the boat and eagles soaring round their peaks. In mid afternoon we anchor at 'Hang Sun Sot' island, where we visit an enormous limestone cave. The inside of the cave is extremely warm and humid and we're glad to be back out in the (still hot) afternoon air.
Our boat motors to a quiet sheltered bay and we anchor for the night. In the hot afternoon air we are still overheated from the cave and the option of a swim is given.
"You're going to do WHAT !!!!! "........................Part 12
We'd seen a few jellyfish in the water and Phuoc mentioned something about water snakes. Someone (flippantly?) asked about sharks and he assured us, "No - No sharks". So as Meatloaf says, "Two out of Three aint bad!", so we changed and jumped into the silty but cool waters for a refreshing swim. Ok, no jellyfish and no snakes and we all returned safely for a (cold) shower on board.
Not a load of junk
The cabins were hot and stuffy after the day's sun and we put the aircon on, which slowly made them cooler. We sat in the dining area, with its open door to the bow and enjoyed a cold beer. Cruising? Mmmmm - this was good.
It went dark at 6.30 with a (nearly) full moon and dinner was served at 7. There was a table decoration of a flower design carved into a water melon and glasses and napkins to complete this extraordinary setting. The kitchen was at the back of the boat and no bigger than an ensuite bathroom.
As at lunch the food was basic but delicious, the tiger prawns arrived with another table decoration made from carrots, cucumbers and a potatoe. I have never seen anything to match it in 5 star hotels - an amazing creation.
There was also a decent wine list and it seemed a shame not to do the meal full justice, so a glass or two was enjoyed by all.
By 9.30 we were more than ready for bed and found that the aircon had dripped condensation onto the bed and pillows. We improvised and made ourselves comfortable, our sleep only being disturbed by the sound (and smell) of the diesel motor running the electric generator.
So maybe not a sound (less) night's sleep and we were up and ready for breakfast well before 8am. Breakfast being toast, fried eggs, cheese, marmalade and bananas whilst we motored back to Ha Long.
After breakfast we sat on the front of the boat and watched the misty islands drift past, occasionally spotting a small shoal of thumbnail sized flying fish, as they broke surface and flitted over the sea in front of the boat.
Arriving at Ha Long our bus was waiting and we boarded for the journey back to Hanoi.
