Doubtfull Sound
Trip Start
Sep 03, 2007
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101
220
Trip End
Jun 17, 2009
Doubtfull Sound,
New Zealand
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
We were booked with the 'Real Journeys' company and their modern, 100 seater catamaran day cruiser arrived with yesterday's tour people. A quick turn round and we set off west on 'Lake Manapouri', which is New Zealand's second deepest lake, for our one hour first leg. We passed many islands which were densely covered with trees, as were the hillsides surrounding the lake and steadily approached the West Arm power station, NZ's largest hydro electric scheme
Lake Manapouri 1
. The mountains now completely surrounded us. The lake also has a feed from Lake Te Anau and with the annual (constant) rainfall it is enough to keep the power station supplied. From a conservation point there are strict lake water level controls to be adhered to, as the infeed water falls down tunnels blasted to reach the power generating station built inside the mountain.At the power station visitor centre we transferred to a coach and set off over 'Wilmot Pass' on a steep gravel road that was built to give access for the construction of the power station. At times the gradient on the road was 1 in 5 and as we came over the top of the pass we had a magnificent view of 'Doubtfull Sound', glistening below us in the sunshine. It is named 'Doubtfull', because Captain Cook passed the mouth of the Sound in the late 1700's and although he saw a passage in, he was "doubtfull" if there was enough space and wind to sail out again.
After 45 minutes we reached 'Deep Cove', the harbour built for the construction of the power station. Here our modern, purpose built ship, the 'Fiordland Navigator' was ready and we boarded and set off without delay. Our double, en-suite cabin was spacious and comfortable.
The Sound runs north west towards the 'Tasman Sea' and then splits into five other arms, only two of which reach the sea
Wilmot Pass
. The whole Sound is surrounded by high mountains, some reaching up to four thousand feet above the Sound sea level. The Sound sides are not vertical as in 'Milford Sound' although the slopes are still pretty steep and covered in trees. The water is fresh on the upper three metres (from the power station) and seawater underneath and because the Sound is sheltered they do not mix.We had been sailing for about thirty minutes when we saw a pod of bottlenose dolphins, who live in the Sound, playing at the side of one of the many tree covered islands. It was now clear skies and bright sunshine, which lit up their splashes in the water.
It was now late afternoon and the ship had sailed up a sheltered side arm. Here we could either go kayaking or take a dory ride. I chose kayaking (no surprise there then!) and we paddled off from the flat boarding ramp at the stern of the ship. What a great set up. Our group paddled along the side of the Sound and we could hear birds singing in the thick forests we were passing. At one point a young sea lion, it gets confusing because they call them New Zealand Fur Seals, was lazily dozing in the water and paid no heed to us as we passed by. The trip was over too soon and we were back on the ship, to be welcomed by hot soup and fresh bread rolls
Doubtfull Sound 1
. Never got that on my old canoe trips!We motored on out of the main arm and past several small islands across the mouth of the sound into the Tasman Sea. There was a metre swell running which gave us a bit of a bounce whilst we watched the gorgeous sunset. The skipper and crew were delighted at the calm conditions, as it was not often that they managed to get out from the Sound.
Back in the Sound we sailed into a side arm as it was going dark. Here we anchored and were served a superb hot buffet dinner, including the choice of apple and berry crumble with custard for dessert! Now this is what I call a real civilised country.
After dinner there was a slide show talk on all aspects of the Sound. We then went on deck and in the clear night sky we got our first chance to look at the southern stars, including finding the 'Southern Cross' constellation that is a part of New Zealand's flag. It was a fabulous end to the evening and we stayed until it was too cold to remain on deck. Back in our cabin we opened our blinds and went to sleep watching the clear sky and stars above us. Magical.
Doubtfull Sound 2
Wednesday 9th April
I got up at 6.15am to watch the sunrise. At the end of the arm a warm, red glow was showing behind the rugged peaks and as it slowly rose the mountain tops around us started to appear in a pink glow. The boat sailed at first light and we broke off for a filling cooked breakfast.
We visited another arm and the day brightened into warm sunshine and clear, blue skies. We had been lucky on this trip to have achieved perfect weather. At the head of the arm another pod of dolphins were swimming. The skipper turned off all engines and the only sound was a slight breeze and the splash of the dolphins as they inquisitively swam around the ship.
Time to move on, past the ever tree covered mountain slopes, waterfalls too many to count and chased by the pod of dolphins, who were eager to surf in our wake. New conservation laws require ships to slow down as it is considered that the dolphins should be feeding or doing other things, rather than having a good time messing around with boats. I find this sad, as it is their choice to come or go and we have seen so many dolphins having a fabulous time playing in the bow wave of boats.
Too soon we were back at Deep Cove and on our way back to the ferry. This had been a fabulous experience and one which we had been recommended to go on. We are finding so much of our information is coming from local knowledge and my initial fears about lack of preparation have (as yet) not come true. This really was a superb trip.
