Day Thirty-Three

Kudzu and I left Rio Grande Village this morning and drove up the winding Green Gulch Road to the Chisos Basin into the heart of the Big Bend and then on to the western entrance of the Park. This is such a beautiful place that I will definitely return to Big Bend in the future to spend time hiking (unfortunately but understandably dogs are not allowed on National Park trails), cycling, exploring the many four wheel drive roads, and rafting the Rio Grande.

Downtown Terlingua

Just beyond the western border of the Park, we stopped at the very remote but active town of Terlingua, home of the original chili cook-off, where I enjoyed a late breakfast of sausage and egg burritos, black coffee, and bloody marys at the Starlight Theatre. The Starlight is a partially renovated (you can still see daylight through various holes in the ceiling and walls) 1930s movie hose frequented by weathered old cowboys, braless hippie chicks, dusty bikers, hung over river guides, and a handful of wide-eyed tourists weary from the long drive to the edge of nowhere. The eclectic establishment offers a full menu of Mexican and American fare, impressive wine list, cold beer, mixed drinks, a shelf full of board games for the kids, and live music seven nights a week. There was even a Jimmy Buffetesque guitarist serenading the Sunday brunch crowd. What a cool town! I could live in Terlingua although I don't know what I would do to support myself other than smuggle dope or sell beer out of a cooler to thirsty tourists on the roadside.

Starlight Theatre

With a full stomach and a Viva Terlingua! bumper sticker, Kudzu and I headed north and west as fast as possible through Alpine, Marfa, and Van Horn in a mad dash towards New Mexico. Finally, well after dark, we are out of Texas. After much deliberation, we are pleased to award Big Bend National Park and the town of Terlingua the coveted five Zoobs award.