Melbourne Idenitiy
Trip Start
Jul 06, 2009
1
6
58
Trip End
Aug 29, 2009
Day 1, off to an early start and out of the door by 8am feeling fine. A crisp but bright morning I headed off in search of coffee and entertainment.... The first port of call being Pelligrini's Bar the Melbourne equivalent of Bar Italia. A small old fashioned Italian coffee shop serving tumblers of fine cappuccino. After that little pick me up and a read of my Lonely Planet guide I decided to head to another great Coffee house - Brother Baba Budan and another great coffee (this time a creosote level double macchiato! Melbourne is coffee heaven - there must be a coffee bar per person and all of them serving very well made Italian coffee. Nearly all of them are individual, chains just don't get a look in. Bro' Budan has no sign outside and if you blinked you'd miss it. Lots of chairs but mainly hanging from the ceiling. Lovely retro waitress in a pink gingham dress with a green gingham apron and a flower in her hair. Great coffee and fresh pastries. They also do their own coffee roasting and grinding so I picked up some High Grown Nicaraguan for the hotel.
Now totally wired and ready for a day on the town I headed off to Federation Square where there is the main Tourist info. Walked in, grabbed a ticket from the machine and was almost instantly served by a typically smiling Melbournian. I asked about a guide for a walking tour and if by magic was presented with Joe - a Melbourne ambassador who was a little down as his booked guests had not shown but this was to my benefit as it meant he would take me on my own exclusive guided tour and all fro free! Great tour taking in the sights - the lanes, major landmarks, Chinatown and somewhat bizarrely culminating in the gents toilets on the 36th floor of the Sofotel - now I know some of you are thinking Mike's got cruised again but no - it was all for the great view (heaven knows what he does if there are ladies present!).
Following the tour, I said my goodbyes and decided that St Kilda was in order for lunch and the afternoon.
Choice two was Cicciolina - apparently a St Kilda institution. Like most institutions, it was run down with little decoration since the early 70s , but despite this served up the most splendid Spaghetti Vongole - microscopically chopped parsley and chilli, fresh clams, enough garlic to ensure the entire neighborhood was Vampire free and swimming in butter - mmmmmmm. This required some serious wine to accompany it (well, that was my excuse) so a half-bottle of Paringa Estate Pinot Noir 2006 was selected - 14.5% but somehow not hot - smooth dark ripe cherries with bright acidity all sprinkled with white pepper.
Next to me was a table of Italian Construction bosses of various ages who were just finishing a long lunch - they seemed to be drinking some elixir with a slice of orange which intrigued me. After inquiring with the waitress it transpired this was something called Averna from Sicily - when in St Kilda.... A nice bitter digestif reminiscent of a Negroni and served over ice with a slice of orange.
Following lunch and a constitutional walk through the 'burbs past a film crew (not Neighbors I hoped) and some quaint Aussie houses, I again stumbled upon the Carlisle Wine Bar.
Premier Yara Valley 1er Pinot Blanc 2008 - Fresh and surprisingly acidic - creamy finishChrismont La Zona Albariņio, King Valley Vctoria 2008 - Not as good as the Spanish - me thinks a little warm for this Winstead Instead Pinot Noir 2008 - Easy going young and fruity Pinot which was more of a pat on the head than a kiss on the chopsMount Gisbourne 2005 Pinot Noir - This was a mich better prospect with a ripe banana nose and some lovely bottle agePatrick T Home Block Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra 2004 - a seriously good finish in every respect
Floating back to the tram with a wide grin and some good recommendations for Tassie, I headed back into town to hook up with an old colleague from Shell. We met and decided that china town was the best place to head for some top food. The Ant Bistro down a side street from Little Bourke St (9 Corrs Place to be exact) served the purpose. Pungent Beef and an Eggplant dish with bamboo shoots, garlic, chili and mushrooms with a little boiled rice. By this stage of the day I was glad it was just Jasmine Tea!
Not bad for Day 1.
Now totally wired and ready for a day on the town I headed off to Federation Square where there is the main Tourist info. Walked in, grabbed a ticket from the machine and was almost instantly served by a typically smiling Melbournian. I asked about a guide for a walking tour and if by magic was presented with Joe - a Melbourne ambassador who was a little down as his booked guests had not shown but this was to my benefit as it meant he would take me on my own exclusive guided tour and all fro free! Great tour taking in the sights - the lanes, major landmarks, Chinatown and somewhat bizarrely culminating in the gents toilets on the 36th floor of the Sofotel - now I know some of you are thinking Mike's got cruised again but no - it was all for the great view (heaven knows what he does if there are ladies present!).
Following the tour, I said my goodbyes and decided that St Kilda was in order for lunch and the afternoon.
Pelligrini's
Tram 16 takes me down St Kilda road and into the bohemian borough which is somewhere between Camden, Blackpool and Manley Beach. Clearly this area has seen better days (as it appears have some of the residents) but it is a nice laid back area with cool shops, bars and restaurants. I headed to the Carlisle Wine Bar (of which more later) but this was only open from 3pm so had to head back into the village to get my tucker (notice the natural chameleon-like slip into Australian slang, blending seamlessly with the natives like a fish on a bicycle). Choice two was Cicciolina - apparently a St Kilda institution. Like most institutions, it was run down with little decoration since the early 70s , but despite this served up the most splendid Spaghetti Vongole - microscopically chopped parsley and chilli, fresh clams, enough garlic to ensure the entire neighborhood was Vampire free and swimming in butter - mmmmmmm. This required some serious wine to accompany it (well, that was my excuse) so a half-bottle of Paringa Estate Pinot Noir 2006 was selected - 14.5% but somehow not hot - smooth dark ripe cherries with bright acidity all sprinkled with white pepper.
Next to me was a table of Italian Construction bosses of various ages who were just finishing a long lunch - they seemed to be drinking some elixir with a slice of orange which intrigued me. After inquiring with the waitress it transpired this was something called Averna from Sicily - when in St Kilda.... A nice bitter digestif reminiscent of a Negroni and served over ice with a slice of orange.
Following lunch and a constitutional walk through the 'burbs past a film crew (not Neighbors I hoped) and some quaint Aussie houses, I again stumbled upon the Carlisle Wine Bar.
Brother Baba Budan
A great place to hang with an eclectic list of international and local wines served deftly by JP and commented on by a trilby wearing, Gitane smoking actor come Wine Critic Nick - a fine afternoon of contemplation ensued. Premier Yara Valley 1er Pinot Blanc 2008 - Fresh and surprisingly acidic - creamy finishChrismont La Zona Albariņio, King Valley Vctoria 2008 - Not as good as the Spanish - me thinks a little warm for this Winstead Instead Pinot Noir 2008 - Easy going young and fruity Pinot which was more of a pat on the head than a kiss on the chopsMount Gisbourne 2005 Pinot Noir - This was a mich better prospect with a ripe banana nose and some lovely bottle agePatrick T Home Block Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra 2004 - a seriously good finish in every respect
Floating back to the tram with a wide grin and some good recommendations for Tassie, I headed back into town to hook up with an old colleague from Shell. We met and decided that china town was the best place to head for some top food. The Ant Bistro down a side street from Little Bourke St (9 Corrs Place to be exact) served the purpose. Pungent Beef and an Eggplant dish with bamboo shoots, garlic, chili and mushrooms with a little boiled rice. By this stage of the day I was glad it was just Jasmine Tea!
Not bad for Day 1.


Comments
innocent
'cruised again but no' Such an innocent, Mike.
Hospitable Melbun
Welcome to the colonies ! Very hospitable of the Aussies to provide you with a live female bed-warmer. I should have told you that the standard Aussie query for the price of such extras - or the price of anything for that matter - is 'Emma Chizzit?' Enjoy Tassie. Cheers, Al