The best of Dubrovnik

Trip Start Nov 09, 2007
Trip End Feb 03, 2008

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Monday, December 17, 2007

Today was the day in Dubrovnik that we were probably not meant to have, given that we should have been on the ferry at 9am if only I had got the day right. Isn't it odd, though, how you always discover the best of a place at the end of your time there? That was true for us today. We found the best place to soak up the winter sun, the best restaurant, the best park and the best coffee shop all on our last day.
First, we went for a walk around the outside of the city walls, between the sea and the walls. What we found is that if you discover just the right place you can find a suntrap where there is no breeze. We found just such a place and despite the freezing conditions actually got quite warm for a half hour or so.
Hunger got the better of us though so we had vowed to try the restaurant that Vladimir had recommended to us a couple of days earlier. Called
Lokanda Peskarija, I have to admit that I was very suspicious, mainly because it has a pristine location, right on the harbour with great views. Normally this would spell tourist trap, but what we found was a charming restaurant with a very small selection of seafood dishes. We tried four of them and all of them were absolutely superb, really superb. Probably the best calamari I have ever eaten, prawns that melted in our mouths and salted anchovies that Jess lapped up. The seafood risotto was also good but not quite as marvellous as the rest. All this and we hadn't had the mussels, which is the restaurant's speciality. If you are in Dubrovnik, do not miss this place. We finished with a crème caramel (also delicious) and a coffee.
After lunch we went for a walk to savour our delicious meal. We exited via the Pile Gate and the girls played on the park equipment even though it was still not completely dry. Georgie was caught red handed! Literally. We went down to the small beach that is just beside the Pile Gate and then walked around from there towards the fort (Lovrjenac) that sits on the hill just outside the city walls. We continued our walk and found a very pretty park sitting above the water, with pathways down to makeshift beaches made from concrete and ladders. The park itself is lovely and the late afternoon sun warmed us as we enjoyed the spectacular views out to the Adriatic.
We watched the sun set and then walked back to the old town. Within the walls safely once again, we realised that we were a bit peckish so we tried the one café in the busy part of the old town that we had not yet tried. Located right near the Ploce entrance, the
Café Gradska is a funky café with excellent cakes and good coffee. The best thing about it though is the atmosphere. Just the right mix of warmth, good lighting and a soft buzz that made us feel at home right away. We took a seat upstairs and enjoyed watching the people come and go, the twinkling Christmas decorations and eating our cakes. Yum.
Time to go back to our apartment and pack up for our move to Hvar.
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