Off the beaten track

Trip Start Nov 09, 2007
Trip End Feb 03, 2008

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Flag of Turkey  ,
Sunday, December 2, 2007

Having spent yesterday looking at ruins I felt that it would be better if we took a day off ruins and cruised up the coast to a town near Bergama and spend a lazy afternoon in a quaint seaside village. Consulting the Internet, the town of Dikili looked like a good option. It was described as 'off the usual tourist path' and 'almost undiscovered'.
What I have decided is that there may well be a reason that it is off the tourist path. Let me say at the outset that Dikili is a nice town and I'm sure that the residents are happy living here. It's just not somewhere that I would go out of my way to visit again.
Let me start at the beginning. Saturday is market day in Selcuk. We awoke to the sounds of ropes flying about our balcony as they hoisted up tarpaulins to protect from the impending rain. We flung on clothes to get out and see the best part of the market only to find that in traditional Turkish fashion there is no hurry in the morning even for market day. By the time we finished poking about the markets (about 10:30) they were probably about 75% set up and were stopping for some tea. Most of the shoppers were tourists, because none of the locals were about yet. We bought some socks at 50 kurish (45 cents) a pair. Heading out of town I needed to buy some petrol. In the circumstances, I thought the best thing to do was perform an illegal U-turn right in front of the police car that was sitting there. Of course he waved me down and admonished me in Turkish. In my defence I didn't know it was illegal. Luckily he frowned at me and let me go without issuing a ticket.
The road to Izmir is a superhighway and travelling was quick. However, when we got to Izmir we descended into the most polluted city we've seen here in Turkey. We wanted to get through as quickly as possible, but that's not so easy. It was not a pleasant drive for a while but eventually we got out of town and on our way again.
We turned off the main drag to take a look at Candarli. There was a very interesting looking castle there and we were tempted to stay but thought that Dikili might have more of interest so we went around a really beautiful coast road, spoilt only by resort developments that popped up every 5km or so. As we reached Dikili we cruised up and down the streets looking for a suitable hotel. In the end we chose the only one that appeared to open, the Hotel Perla. It has wonderful sea views and although a little bit run down, perfectly OK for us.
We checked in and checked out the town. We made a few wrong choices, including eating at a place where we were charged about twice as much as the locals for a plate of food. I ordered the 'beef' which turned out to be liver (ewwww) and then we went for some baklava and a coffee at a pastanesi. The baklava looked nice but tasted horrible. The coffee was served black with a container of powdered milk to pour in to our taste.
The weather that had been a pleasant 17 degrees suddenly got very cold and we froze on the walk back to our hotel. I wrote this limerick to celebrate our time here:
If you happen to wind up in Dikili
Your temper could turn rather prickly
From the liver they serve
To baklava hors d'ouvres
You may end up feeling quite sickily
We finished the day with an excellent buffet dinner served at the hotel. When they offered us a meal for 5 lira ($4.50) I was a bit dubious but we couldn't be bothered going out. It turned out to be a marvellous buffet. Strike a point for Dikili!
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guykb on

Re: You must have had a bad day Dikili is Great
Hi Sharon and thanks for your comment. Yes, I'd have to admit that lots of my experience in Dikili was down to me. Broke my own rules! Glad to hear that you enjoy Dikili so much and that your guests have had such positive experiences. I'm curious though... do you go there much in winter? Have many of your guests stayed there in winter?

I'd be very pleased to take up your challenge if ever I'm back in that neck of the woods again. Thanks for your offer and best of luck with your villa.

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