A series of unfortunate events
Trip Start
Nov 09, 2007
1
12
92
Trip End
Feb 03, 2008
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Istanbul,
Turkey
Saturday, November 17, 2007
The Princess Islands lie in the Sea of Marmara and are a 90 minute ferry ride from Istanbul. They have a reputation as the playground of the Istanbul elite and we were keen to check them out.
The ferry leaves from Kabatas wharf and, being a Saturday the services were not that regular. The next one was an hour later at 10:40 so we sat at a nearby kiosk and enjoyed a pleasant cup of 'nescafe' beside the waterfront.
There was a stampede to get on board as usual, but the boat was pretty empty and seating was not a problem. We sat outside and our reward was a moving panorama of Istanbul waterfront property. It was amazing just how far along the coastline on the Asian side the high rise apartments stretch. Lots of homes with fantastic views of the Bosphorus.
There are five main islands in the group and the ferry stops at four of them. The cost of each trip is 2.60 lira, so you can get off at each island and explore then buy another coupon to get to the next island on the next ferry. We only had time to get off at the two larger islands - Heybeliada first and then the largest island Buyukada.
The first thing we noticed was the 19th century grandeur of the homes. Clearly this had once been a very wealthy area. We also noticed that many of the homes had seen better days so there was a certain amount of faded grandeur to be seen.
The second island we docked at, Burgazada was clearly cat island, as there were at least two dozen of them waiting at the wharf to greet the incoming ferry.
View from the ferry
The next stop was our first destination, Heybeliada. This was dog island - we were greeted by an assortment of a dozen or so dogs. Well, I say greeted but only if you count lying in our path as a greeting.Heybeliada is a very picturesque island. Restaurants are arranged along the waterfront and there are horses and carriages to take you around the island. All of the islands are vehicle free, which is such a nice change after the madness of Istanbul. We strolled along the promenade then took a horse and carriage tour around the island. It was wonderful and we felt like royalty for just 20 lira. When it came to an end we had time to stroll back to the wharf in time for the next ferry which would take us to Buyukada.
Buyukada is a much larger settlement than the other islands. Clearly this is where most of the tourist action is. Dozens of restaurants lined the shore and there were souvenir and gift shops in the side streets. We had to run the gauntlet of the spruikers: 'Welcome to my restaurant it is the best restaurant' etc etc. We chose one of the restaurants on the waterfront, Ali Baba, much against our better judgment, but the setting was so lovely.
The meal was below standard and way overpriced. Jess had vaguely expressed an interest in calamari so I had to make sure that she had it. We ordered a plate for 20 lira and along came 8 pieces of fairly tasteless battered calamari. The rest of the meal was about the same and once they had added a 20% cover charge and a 15% service charge (none of which, of course, was mentioned on the menu) the bill was 70 lira.
Our carraige awaits
Way too much for what we got.One of the best pieces of advice for any traveller is never to eat in the waterfront restaurant. Always choose one one street back. The restaurants on the waterfront a bound to get tourist trade which they know they will never see again, so they are not interested in 'winning you over'. They are only interested in getting as much money out of you for as little cost as possible. I know this, and yet I went to Ali Baba anyway.
Afterwards I promised the girls an ice cream. I know the wise thing to do is to ask the price first (seeing there are no signs), and so I did. 'One lira one scoop, two liras two scoops' the fellow serving the ice cream told me. OK then. The girls said what they wanted and I thought I would have one too at that reasonable price. I handed over a 5 lira note for the three single scoops and they fellow said 'No, no is 9 lira'
'But we only had one scoop each'
'You have a special cone. Is one lira extra'
'You didn't tell me that. Anyway, that still only makes it 2 lira per ice cream'
'No is 2 scoop minimum in special cone'
'You didn't tell me that either. In that case, give me my extra scoop'
'No, I gave you 2 scoops'
'But there is only one scoop here. It's all the same flavour'
By this time the fellow had called over someone more senior. He insisted it was 9 lira. I told him he was being dishonest. He told me his English was not good enough. I told him how convenient and snarled at him. The point was, 3 lira was an OK price - too much but not out of reason, so why didn't they tell the truth about the price in the first place? I gave him my most withering stare and at least he had the decency to look slightly uncomfortable.
Our horse and buggy ride
I paid him his 9 lira and we left. the ice cream was spoiled for me, but the girls seemed to enjoy it. The shop was called Prinkipo Dondurma - avoid!We had missed the next ferry back so we had an hour to fill in. We walked along the waterfront in the other direction,, noting some of the dilapidated homes and broken down wrecks among the wealthy mansions. Our last bitter taste of this island happened when we were leaving. We sat down at a cafe (Cafe Mado - also avoid!) and ordered 2 coffees and 2 hot chocolates and a bill for 30 lira came. We had enjoyed the ferry ride and the island itself, but for anyone thinking of going to Buyukada, let me write it for you in bold, large letters. BEWARE - TOURIST TRAP.
We took the ferry home and enjoyed the lights of Istanbul as we sailed past Sultanahmet. As it was late when we docked we decided to take a taxi home. We flagged one down and he came screeching to a halt. We climbed in and he took us on a mad dash to Tunel. When we got there the fare was a little over 9 lira. I handed over a 20 lira note and told him 10 is OK.
He hid the 20 lira note and held up a 1 lira note (old money) and he said 'No, taxi fare is 9.32 lira - you only gave me 1 lira'
'What are you talking about, I gave you a 20 lira note.'
'No, you gave me 1 lira'
Now, I had read about this trick that some taxi drivers try on and I was ready for him. The problem was he already had my 20 lira note (and was trying to get more!) and so I was on a hiding to nothing.
'Look, give me my ten lira change' I told him.
'No, you gave me 1 lira.'
'Right,' I said, 'I'm calling the tourist police.' An empty threat, I thought but it is the recommended response. Just then a large black car pulled up and the driver said something to the taxi driver - I don't know what - but the taxi driver soon gave my my change and I got out. Maybe my call to the tourist police was answered. For sure I got very lucky. My legs were a bit wobbly for a while.
We headed home to pack ready to leave for Cappadocia tomorrow.
