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Beautiful Patagonia
Entry 32 of 134 | show all | print this entry |
Now I am in Calafate, where I am staying at the Buenos Aires Youth Hostel. Inhabited by 5000 thousand people, El Calafate is located on the southern bank of Lake Argentino, at the foot of the mountain under the same name, in the southwest of the province of Santa Cruz. El Calafate is the main access to the renowned Los Glaciares National Park, one of the most amazing parks in Argentina with blocks of thousand-year-old ice floating in the lakes. The town is a very important tourist center and has gained both national and international significance since it is there where all the glacial circuits start: Viedma Glacier, Upsala Glacier, Onelli Glacier, Spegazzini Glacier, Mayo Glacier, Frías Glacier, and Perito Moreno Glacier known as "the eighth wonder of the world" and declared World Natural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1981. Unfortunately, to visit the glaciers, one has to book a tour with an agency.
El Calafate is named after a small bush typical of southern Patagonia, whose fruit (a kind of berry) is very much used in local confectionery, especially for jams. It tastes similar to blackberries although it is less sour. It is usually the main ingredient of cakes, pies, drinks and desserts, which are very difficult to resist. An old legend says that the person who eats the berry will return to Patagonia. I ate tons of these berries so my return should be for sure.
I came to Calafate because of the glaciers and booked an alternative glacier tour through one of the youth hostels. We visited glacier Perito Moreno, an unforgettable event, at least for me. There are two glaciers that are considered "moving", Perito Moreno glacier and Upsala glacier. This remarkable southern wonder has unusual glacial characteristics: unlike other glaciers that are formed at 2500 mt above sea level, these ones are formed at 1,500 mt above sea level and slide down to 200 mt above sea level, thus offering unique access and sights. Lake Argentino is the meeting point for two colossal glaciers: Perito Moreno and Upsala. The well-known Perito Moreno Glacier, owes its popularity to the continuous movement of its ice mass, resulting from a cyclical forward and backward pattern. Thus, pieces break off its front which is 5 km wide and 60 mt above the lake level.
This surprising and curious passage brings about the accumulation, fracture and breaking-off of massive blocks of ice. With thunderous noises, these blocks break off and float away as icebergs along the Témpanos Channel (Iceberg Canal). The gradual breaking off and subsequent lake leveling becomes a breathtaking sight which can be witnessed every three or four years. Perito Moreno, unlike the other glaciers, has shown significant movements. The gigantic blocks of ice that detach from the glacier, fall into the Témpanos Channel consequently blocking it. When this occurs, the waters of the South and Rico arms of Lake Argentino dam up outstandingly increasing their level. In 1988 a 25-meter-high increase was recorded, and a maximum of approximately 30 meters is estimated. Ice blocks of different sizes continually detach from Perito Moreno glacier and fall into the waters of Lake Argentino, causing spine-chilling sounds and amazing waves on the surface that make this event an unforgettable sight. And detachments we saw - there was uhhing and ahhing from the tourists whenever a sizable piece of ice crushed into the lake. It is an impressive sight and i could have spent there the entire day, taking a chair with me and just sitting there and watching the glaciers movements. We also got to see some condors circling they sky. The weather wasn't sunny which was o.k. with me but I would have liked to see the changes of the ice's color when the sun shines on it. But, it was beautiful. The w e hikes for an hour through he park to the embarkation of our boat. For 1/2 hour, we circulated close to the glacier to get some nice photo memories. Click here for photos.
As always, one can meet interesting people along the way. Here, in the Park's parking lot I met a couple from Kamenz, East Germany who are touring the Americas in their W50. Now, I think only the East Germans know what a W50 is, so let's just say it is a big truck which the family rebuild to include a living and bed space with real beds.
Today, I visited a typical estancia, "Estancia Alice", where we got to observe a sheep shearing, working sheep herding dogs, and wild-life watching in Los Pajaros Lagoon (Bird Lagoon). For lunch we had a typical Patagonian barbecue (asado) and a performance of folkloric dance. In the afternoon, I will visit the museum and the Lagoon on Calafate. Tomorrow, I will head back into Chile to Puerto Natales from where I plan on hiking Torres el Paine National Park. On January 7, I will embark on a three day boat trip from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt.
Where I stayed:
Buenos Aires Youth Hostel
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