Culture Shock

Trip Start Jul 20, 2004
1
27
159
Trip End Jul 20, 2012


Loading Map
Map your own trip!
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow
Where I stayed
Condor Pass Hostel

Flag of Argentina  ,
Sunday, December 12, 2004

It happened. Apart from high prices, San Pedro de Atacama still felt like Uyuni, or Bolivia. At least a bit. But now, I am in Salta, Argentina, and i feel like I am in Germany, getting ready for Christmas shopping. It is a lovely town but compared to what i have seen over the past 4 months, i feel like i am on another planet. Though there are quit a few Bolivians living in Salta, the shopping streets (streets without car traffic) look exactly like in Germany. I am back into advanced civilization. I stayed at the hostal Condor Pass, a great place to chill out. The owner has a beautiful Rottweiler, Jenny, which I took with me in the morning on my way to explore the city. People are very friendly and open here; I met Elena from BA here and she invited me to stay with her family in La Boca, Buenos Airies. Tomorrow, I leave for the wine region, Cafayate.

It was a beautiful ride to Cafayate and the town itself is very pleasant too.Cafayate is a place rich in history; Diaguítas indigenous settlements have been found here; afterwards, around 1480, the Incas arrived from Peru and in 1535 the Spaniards came, arriving from the Humuahuaca ravine Cafayate from Finca las Nubes
Cafayate from Finca las Nubes
. In the area one finds ceramics, guardrails, cultivation terraces and cave paintings by the Diaguita Indians.

Cafayate is in the center of the Calchaquíes valleys of Salta, and - after Mendonza - it's the area that produces the best wines of Argentina. The most renowned one is Torrontès, the roots of which come from Spain, and although it's white, it reaches 13° alcoholic degrees due to the altitude where its vines are cultivated. The cellars are generally small and family-owned, most of them can be visited and there's even a small museum in the oldest one, called the Secret Vessel. They have even developed a wine ice-cream, which is sold in the ice-cream parlors of the town (and a whiskey ice cream too).

Apart from the charm of the town, Cafayate also boasts interesting surroundings, like the Río Colorado waterfalls (where we hiked to), the white sands of Los Mèdanos and the Cafayate Ravine. To see the sunset, one can either go to Santa Teresita hill (where I went before a big thunderstorm broke out)or to Las Nubes ranch, a small winery 3km off the village, at the foot of San Isidro hill, on a small elevation that overlooks the whole valley. It's the personal project of a guy from Mendoza who decided to create "author's wines" in this area. He bought the land, planted 5000 stocks and his current production counts a few thousand bottles. The winery/house will soon be expanded so as to provide tourist accommodation facilities.

I visited several wineries, tried the corresponding tastings and found, much to my disappointment, that I did not like any of the wines.
Slideshow Print this entry