Melting Rock

Trip Start May 09, 2009

Trip End May 29, 2009

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Where I stayed

Prospector Inn Escalante

(Escalante hotels)

Flag of United States Escalante, Utah, United States
Friday, May 22, 2009

Kodachrome,
They give us those nice bright colors,
They give us the greens of summers,
Makes you think all the worlds a sunny day, oh yeah.
I got a Nikon camera,
I love to take a photograph,
So mama don't take my Kodachrome away.

Kodachrome ~ Paul Simon

Well, it wasn't a sunny day. We had left a couple days free, planning to be back country hiking overnight in the Escalante-Grand Staircase area in some lonely as yet undetermined canyon. With the rain turning the back country roads to mush, those plans were on hold. Fearing not being able to find an available room or even campsite at a state park because of the upcoming holiday weekend, we left Ruby's early enough to arrive in Escalante by 7:30. We saw the vacancy sign at the Prospector Inn, pulled in, and grabbed the last available room.

After dumping our suitcases, we backtracked to Kodachrome Basin State Park. The National Geographic Society suggested the name in 1949, with Kodak Film Company's blessing of course. The park contains a small collection of sandstone cliffs and formations, mostly in reds and yellows, surrounded by the higher mesas containing blue-green sandstones. It was drizzling as we arrived. A nice Seattle drizzle, an almost why bother with an umbrella type of rain. We hiked the Grand Parade Trail. Perhaps the rain was keeping everybody safely tucked away in their RVs at the campsite, but the park was very quiet. The smell of the sage in the light rain was overwhelming. As we approached the cliffs, the smell of clay grew stronger. Rain was collecting and pouring off the faces in rivulets. As it streamed off the cliffs, little chocolate milk stalactites formed on some of the undersides of rocks. The water collected in the arroyos and rushed for the lower ground, cutting deeper channels in the sand. It reminded me of playing after the rain as a child, floating leaves and bottle caps in the overflowing gutters.

We decided to drive over and see the Shakespeare Arch but it was down a section of the park with dirt roads. After being assured by the ranger that the road had a good gravel base, we proceeded. Two pronghorn were grazing in the sagebrush as we drove by. The hike out to the arch was also very nice. Water was flowing down all the small arroyos, and the wildflowers were glistening. The rain was soaking the sandstone, bringing out more subtle colours of rusts and siennas. We chose to take the alternate route back, which took us completely around the formation and provided some stunning views of the valley. A few points of the trail I had to hold Jane's hand and guide her along since the edge dropped off sharply

When we asked around town, most people said Georgie's was the best restaurant. Georgie's Corner Cafe is situated in a funky residence on Main Street. The living room can seat about eighteen at four tables, and another table for two sits near the front entrance. When the weather is nice, people can also eat at a table on the front porch or a few more in the front yard garden which is full of desert wildflowers and sages and decorated with a variety of home-made garden art. We had to wait for a table but it was worth it. Mexican fare, prepared simply with fresh ingredients. The chips were made there, cut thick and served piping hot straight from the oil with lots of salt and accompanied by their own salsa. Pie al a mode with Utah cherries for dessert. Georgie was working the kitchen and we didn't meet her, but the young woman working the tables was extremely helpful as we chatted about local hikes and destinations. Besides, they had a copy of Georgie and the Noisy Ghost decorating the living room fireplace, one of my childhood favourites along with Where the Wild Things Are, Are You My Mother?, and The Whoosh.