Salvador, Marro de Sao Paulo. Bahia Region
Trip Start
Feb 22, 2005
1
20
Trip End
Jun 22, 2005
Salvador,
Brazil
Wednesday, June 1, 2005
After a 21 hour bus journey south we arrived in Salvador, the 2nd biggest tourist destination in Brazil. It still has many African influences in the culture, food and religion as it was the centre of the countryīs slave trade. Salvador is a huge city but we headed straight for the old colonial centre, which over looks the water front and financial district. We were instantly jumped upon by the usual "tourist guide" who turns out to be someone trying to get some money out of you for pointing out your hotel across the street. As we were in Brazil out of season we seem to be suffering from the fact that the local blaggers didnīt have as many tourists to approach. The extra attention got to be a bit wearing. After we had settled into our room, which over looked the main square, we headed out to explore.
The whole area is a maze of fantastic old colonial buildings
A/ Rainy Salvador
. Unfortunately a lot of them have suffered, due to a lack of money, however the area is still very beautiful, in a slightly run down, Old Havana kind of way. As we wandered through the streets, we noticed that a lot of work is being done to restore the public buildings, which will Iīm sure lead to the whole area being brought back to itīs former glory. As with a lot of shabby chic areas, local artist have moved in, and the streets are lined with small studios and galleries. Not expecting much to be going on as it was Tuesday night, we headed out. The town was buzzing with people, there was a local, all female drum band practicing in the street and a stage with a live band set up on the old slave whipping square. Another of the squares had been taken over by stalls, most were make shift bars and some sold the delicious Bahian street food. We knew folk from Salvador liked to party, (they hold one of the best Carnivals in Brazil), but did this sort of thing go on every night? It turned out that Tuesday is in fact the cityīs big night out, so we had a few drinks and a slab of tapioca pudding and enjoyed the spectacle.
The next day we were plagued by particularly foul weather but managed to ride the funicular railway down to the financial district and look round the indoor market before riding the art deco elevator back up to the old town. We also saw some Capoeira, the traditional slave fight dance, being performed, it is very popular in Salvador, maybe thatīs why there are so many people with ankle injuries
B/ The art deco elevator
.2nd June
We wanted to visit the island on Marro Sao Paulo which lies south of Salvador, so after breakfast we caught the Cat-ferry over. We had read youīd need your sea-legs as it can be a rough crossing and it didnīt disappoint. We sat outside near the back and crew members were soon accompanying green looking passengers to the stern to throw up. We felt OK but we remembered Martinīs advice; to always make sure you face downwind. I think it was particularly rough, as when we docked at Morro de Sao Paulo the ferry was crunched against the dockside by the waves. Morro is only a small island and there are no cars, the locals use horse and cart, tractors and wheel barrows to get about on the narrow sandy streets. We were met off the dock by a wheel barrow taxi, who slung our two backpacks into his barrow and wheeled them up the 40 degree harbour ramp and to a hotel he recommended on the beach front. The hotel was a great spot and the breakfast terrace looked out over the best surf beach on the island. Although there were no cars this was no backwater, there were lots of nice restaurants, bars and shops and on the 4 or 5 beaches there was pretty much everything you could ask for and in Summer it gets packed. You can surf, snorkel, wind surf, dive, horse ride or even try the zip-wire from the lighthouse down to the beach. When we were there it was quiet and peaceful.
The first day Graham hired a surf board but as the area to catch the waves was short and rocky and packed with other surfers he soon got into trouble for not obeying the mysterious queueing system. A local kid had been watching and called him over and gave him a few tips. Apparently it was not a good time for learners to be out as the tide was low and there was not much water to cover the rocky point
C/ The sandy main street in morro
. So not wanting to get minced on the rocks or beaten up by locals he sat back with me as a spectator. It wasnīt long before another local kid came running up to ask if he could have a go on Grahamīs board. They are mad keen but probably canīt afford a board of their own, so we thought he might as well but it to good use. We went for a walk to the furthest beach. Graham was confident that as we continued we would be able to cut back across the island, and eventually we did find a track. It took us through a mud quagmire than sucked out flip-flops off, then through the little villages in the centre off the island. Before we had chance to reach home we were caught in a tremendous rainstorm which turned dusk into dark. We arrived back at the hotel completely dripping wet and covered in sand from legging it.
You would have thought Iīd have learnt my lesson on these romantic walks Graham takes me on, but the next day after Graham had attempted to surf again, we set off to find the waterfall on the island. After several hours we did find a waterfall, just not THE waterfall, but all in all we got a good look round the island, and not just the tourist spots. Luckly the weather had decided to give us a break to.
4th June
We took a short ferry south to the mainland, then piled in a mini-bus with the locals to get to the nearest town, for a bus to Rio. The locals from Marro de Sao Paulo obviously all knew each other and were enjoying the crack on the way, even when one of their bags went sailing off the roof onto the road, luckily it was spotted and we reversed the 200 meters to retrieve it. The bus to Rio was with the same company as we took to Salvador so we expected a similar service with snacks, free water, good seats and blanket. But this rural route did not warrant the same service. Lets get one thing clear, the buses in Brazil are FREEZING. They have the air conditioning cranked right up, this might be necessary in the height of Summer but when itīs cloudy and rainy outside it isnīt. We had come expecting blankets, so spent the 25 hour journey huddled together for warmth, me in a mini skirt and boob tube!
Rio Entry coming soon!
