Recife, Olinda, Jacuma, Pipa. North East Coast
Trip Start
Feb 22, 2005
1
19
20
Trip End
Jun 22, 2005
Natal,
Brazil
Tuesday, May 24, 2005
We arrived quite late in Recife and decided it would be wise to take a taxi to our hotel as we didnīt want to experience why Recife has the reputation as the most dangerous city this side of Rio. Recife was a bit run down so we quickly hopped on a bus to itīs sister city, Olinda. Olinda has some of Brazilīs finest examples of colonial architecture, set on a steep hill next to the sea. Unfortunately a lot of it is very run down but the town is a centre for local artists and they are supposed to host a great Carnival. It was pouring down when we arrived but we did get a chance to get out and take a few snaps, and sink a Caprinha looking out over the town as the rain came down in Sunny Brazil again. The local street food was cheap and delicious.
25th May
We took a taxi north up the coast to a little beach town called Jacuma, as it was only a bit more expensive than the bus but a lot quicker
A. View over Olinda
. It was very quiet when we arrived as itīs their winter at the moment and we immediately attracted the attention of a local fisherman called Raymundo. He saw to it that he was our guide, (and meal partner) for the next two days. Raymundo introduced us to everybody he new in the village and they advised us where to find the most unspoilt beaches. The next morning we set off to walk off our hearty Brazilian breakfast, that made a Full English look small. The beaches were pretty special, they were wide, long and empty with palm trees or multi-coloured rock faces opposite the sea. With no public transport we were only passed by the occasional beach buggy, the local form of getting about. Before we reached a secluded cove we passed a group of vultures feasting on a huge sea turtle that had been washed ashore in the recent high tides. After a sunbathe and read we hurried home hoping not to get cut off by the tide.28th May
We headed north again by bus to the nearest city, where we were again intercepted by a taxi driver willing to take us the next leg of the journey for the same price as the bus. Priaia de Pipa is a really cool little town on a cliff top overlooking a sandy beach. Around the corner the next beach has some pretty good waves so Graham went off in search of a surf board to hire for the next day. We had some amazing barbecue king prawns in one of the many restaurants and I checked out the bikinis in the glam shops that lined the main street
C. The colourful buildings of Olinda
. No purchases though, I did not want to be too hasty before seeing what Rio has to offer. The place was a sophisticated mix of surfers types and Brazilians weekenders. It was Friday night so we tracked down a hip bar and joined in the dancing that spiled out onto the street. After a few Graham got into spill mode, those that have been drinking with him will know what I mean, luckily the drinks were pretty reasonable. As for the surfing, Iīm making progress but not really in the water. I have managed to perfect the scruffy beach bum look but the watery bit is proving tricky. The thing is surfing is actually very difficult, in Ecuador I think we had it pretty easy. The waves were long and they broke onto nice soft sand. In Brazil things have got a lot harder, in Pipa I went out and spent the whole time trying to get past the huge break. This was both very tiring and demoralising. However the water is really warm and I know that this is a real luxury in the world of water sports, so I will persist.
On the way to Natal to get our bus down to Salvador, we met a Brazilian guy called Marcus, who had just given up life and a wife in Notting Hill. He had travelled up the coast of Brazil looking for the perfect spot to buy a beach bar. He arrived in Pipa and bought his bar. He told us that you can get out to Natal (the nearest airport to Pipa), for 400 euros from Amsterdam. If you take into account the price difference when youīre here, two weeks in Brazil would be cheaper than two weeks in Spain. Well worth thinking about!
