Cod hole..roller coaster...
Trip Start
Sep 25, 2003
1
27
59
Trip End
Apr 23, 2005
Lizard Island to Cairns,
Australia
Friday, September 17, 2004
Abstract: To cheer ourselves up after selling Larry we booked onto a four day diving trip on the Barrier Reef. We flew at 300m up to Lizard Island then did 11 dives on our way back to Cairns. We completed the PADI advanced course, did a dive to 30m and 2 night dives. There was much seasickness.
After some frantic packing and posting we left for Hong Kong via Brisbane and KL.
Nitty Gritty: On the morning of our departure we had to be up at 6am and packed up the tent etc and stuffed it under a neibours caravan. Arriving at the posh meeting hotel, the colonial club, we felt a bit out of place with our scruffy blue bag, hastily stuffed with the gear we thought we would need
Moose!
. We were transfered out to the airport and ono one of 3 8 seater planes for the low level reef flight (200m) up to Lizard Island. Lizard Island has one of the most exclusive resorts where guests pay thousands a night, but because it is in a national park you can also stay at the campsite for $4 a night. If only we had had time to organise it we could have stayed a week in the campsite then gone diving. Lizard has some fabulous beaches but from what we saw appeared to be quite dry and barren... anyway if you have the money I'm sure it is lovely. After managing to avoid the videographer (Sam) who kept jumping out from behind every bush, we were loaded into two Zodiacs and ferried out to the 'Supersport' a four deck 90 foot catermaran which was to be our home for the next 3 nights. Our economy cabin was compact and Graham had to take the top bunk so Rachel could reduce the roll of the boat by being lower down. We were introduced to the crew and the Skipper, Rob told us it was going to be rough as the winds were in the high 20 knots, groans from Rachel... The trip out to the famous Cod Hole was rough I swear the boat was airborn a couple of times. Despite being a shade of green I pursuaded Rachel to get up and we went off for the first dive. This site has a family of giant Potato Cod and huge maori wrasse. Here, fish bigger than you swim up to within inches of you. Sam the video guy tells a story of a diver who was 'bothering' one of these huge fish, that decided to quieten him down by engulfing his entire head in his mouth, apparantly for several seconds the poor diver was held by the neck (with head inside its mouth) whist a disbelieving dive buddy looked on in amazement
Nemo 2
. Having avoided being eaten we fet a whole lot better for having been under the water rather thatn on it in the boat. The Boat turned out to be very comfortable, each diver having their own station therefore avoiding the need to lug cylinders or other gear around. In the afternoon we went to Challanger Bay, where there is beatiful pristine corals and lots of nooks and crannies full of bizzare fish. That evening we did our first night dive, which despite our reservations (we were terrified) turned out to be great fun, you can easily see the glow from the boat so you know which way is up and where 'home' is and your lorch (and that of other divers lights up little patches of reef, showing off the colours better than during the day, there is also loads of stuff that comes out at night like moray eel, cuttle fish and shrimp...
Unfortunately Rachel had to go to bed due to sea sickness, we had only one packet of pills with us, luckily there was several more packs on board so Rach was able to dose herself up, avoiding the worst symptoms but subsequently rather dopey (more even than usual-G :-)-slap-R-ouch-G ). Graham ferried supplies of the delicious food to Rach in bed and did his best to make sure he ate enough for two in order to get our moneys worth.
Nemo's Cousin...
The next day (after a bumpy nights sailing) we arrived at Lighthouse, and started our 'PADI Advanced diver course' with a dive to 30 metres, the instuctor produced a number game and we had to point to 24 numbers in turn, it took much longer down there due to the onset of nitrogen narcosis. He also produced a tomato which G successfully identified but Rachel thought was a Kiwi fruit??... remember that most colour is lost when diving that deep..
After completeing out tasks we had the remainder of this dive and the next one to explore the lighthouse which is a natural 25 m tall coral pinnicle, swimming round and up was amazing with shoals of thoousands of brightly coloured fish around.
After lunch we moved to Pixie Pinnacle engulfed in schools of fusiliers and
fluorescent purple and orange anthias attracting predatory fish like barracuda.
At the next site, Pixie Gardens we did our second course dive, testing navigation, even swimming round in a square with a compass can be tricky but we both seemed to pass OK.
That night our third course dive, at night, consisted in more compass work. Graham was terrified as after he had done his navigation excercise, some divers staying with rach, Rach went off to do hers and I was left on my own with nothing but a sandy bottom within torch range and the boat and the other divers out of visual range... gulp. It probably was only a couple of minutes but I was very grateful when Rach and the instructor reappeared
Rach 'Down Under'
. It is pretty lonely on your own at night on the featureless bottom of the sea...That night Rach once again had to retire early which was a shame as the food was fantastic. Later on after most of the guests had gone to bed Graham watched 'Top Gun' with the crew, obviously there is a limited number of films on board as they seemed to know every word.
The next day we dived at Steves bommie twice doing the course dives for photography (G) and Naturalist (r) and then in the afternoon at Flare point we did a drift dive which was great, no effort, just being carried along by the current, this was also our last course dive (boat-r & naturalist-G). That night there was a BBQ and party on board, but R missed it once again as she was seasick... At least she avoided the games, ie. being tyed to people, trying to get a coke can as far as possible in a press up style, and trying to grasp a box off the floor with only ones teeth... BBQ was good though and once again R was supplyed with food in bed whilst G did his best to eat for two. On the last night the boat had to steam back to Cairns some 9 hours away, and it was very choppy. I think most people where feeling queasy the next morning on our arrival.
Us looking scared on our first night dive1
The next weekend was spent packing up our gear and deciding what to send home to the UK, and what we needed with us. On Sunday, we went round to Avan and Heathers for a BBQ as it was our last night in Australia..
On monday we flew from Cairns to Brisbane then onto Hong Kong via Kuala Lumpur.
We were very sorry to leave Aus, and have enjoyed the freedom of being able to drive through what have to be some of the most isolated and lonely, yet beautiful landscapes on earth. I can't think of anywhere else were you can drive for day, camping where you like and not see a soul. Fantastic.
The big 4wd tracks would have to be the highlight:
The Birdsville Track
The Simpson Desert
Old Andado
Gary Junction (papunya)
Sandy Blight junction track
Gunbarrell Highway
Gary Highway
Canning Stock Route
Talawana Track
Gibb River Road and Mitchell Plateau
Gulf Savanah Track
and of course The Cape york trip..
We met lots of lovely people along the way, Dave, Dave and Simon we knew before of couse, but Steve and Jackie in the red landcruiser in the Flinders, The gang on the Sandy Blight-did you make it to your unidentified satelitte image feature? Eddie and Janice on the Canning, Michelle and hubby in the determined KIA on Mitchell Plateau, Peter and crew on the OTT on Cape york, Avan and Heather at Chili beach then again in Cooktown and again in Cairns (thankgoodness the car can be fixed!), John, Cliff Chris and Liz in Cairns. Thankyou for making us feel so welcome in Aus, again.
There were also some pubs supplying refreshment at very desperate moments, Mungaranie on the Birdsville, Mt Dare after the Simpson, Hells gate on the Gulf and Lions den after the Cape amongst others. Not forgetting fun at Broome races, Cooktown Bull Ride and Darwin dog track. Talking of dogs.. Timmy, Mutt Mutt, Clancy and Bungy all deserve a mention...
So thats the last of Australia and we're off to pastures new... read on.....
