Abstract: After encountering bribery, corruption and extortion at the Lao / Cambodian border we arrived at Stung Treng via a screaming speedboat (50mph?), after shaking off the touts and hustlers we booked the slow boat to Kompong Cham, then a minibus via Skuon where we ate deep fried Tarantula (I kid you not), to Phenom Penh, and after another overnight, the ten hour bumpy bus ride to Siem Reap. We bought a seven day pass and are now half way through enjoying the 'Jewel in SE Asia's crown' the temples of Angkor. Together with a brief and very moving visit to the landmine museum.
Factoid of the day: Whilst the west fussed about the 'SARS' epidemic and boycotted SE Asia, much to Cambodia's tourist economy's detriment (not one case was recorded within her borders), three childrens hospitals in Phnom Penh & Siem Reap recorded a record 9,000 cases of Dengue fever. We didn't get to hear about that though, why?, no westerners died! (see http://www.beat-richner.ch/ ) OK, campaining over....
Nitty Gritty:
The Lao / Cambodian border was.....an experience! We arrived by motorbike taxi (we rode pillion with each backpack balanced in front of the drivers seat)to find there were 9 of us trying to cross that day.
Issue 1: Lao police / border guards charged $2 each to leave the country - this is not an official fee, we had our visas, it goes into their back pocket.
Issue 2: We are now stamped out of Lao and the Cambodian immigration is on the opposite bank of the Mekong
Issue 3: Khmer mafia control the boatmen who run speedboats between Stung Treng in Northern Cambodia & the Lao / Cambodian border. There was a ring leader and his english speaking side kick & the opening offer from their side was $14 each!(A guesthouse in Stung Treng does the reverse journey for $3, so you get the picture)
Issue 4: None of the boatmen would talk to us, so after 4 hours of stalemate, we had to accept that we would each pay $12! It was a gauling experience and the gloating look on the ring leaders face will stay with me for a very long time.....
Issue 5: The lovely French speaking Cambodian border guard extracted a further $3 from each of us before we could take off at high speed to Stung Treng
Issue 6: Would we make it alive, zooming down the Mekong at 50mph! Yes we did, I'm glad to say.
Cambodia initially takes some getting used to, especially after laid back Lao. We were beseiged by hotel touts as our speedbaots docked and after the boarder experience we were loathed to trust anyone. Then there's the money issue - US dollar is the main currency, even though riel is the official one. You pay in dollars and get change in riel!
We overnighted at Stung Treng where we met a great chap called Darin at the Riverside Guesthouse. He spoke really good english and had some terrible stories to tell.
Caught boat south along the Mekong to Kompong Cham where we were husstled into a minibus to Phnom Peng. En route we stopped briefly at Skuon a town renowned for its fried spiders. As we sat in the minibus, lots of vendors surrounded us and one of them had spiders. Graham just had to try one - we all had a taste of the legs, but drew the line at the bulbous body!
Spent one uneventful night in PP before catching the red eye express to Siem Reap & the temples of Angkor. The bus took ages as the road was practically dirt and potholes all the way. It was great fun though as we were the only westerners on board and it was packed with Cambodians going on holiday.
Gave the touts the slip in Siem Reap and found a guesthouse which has been challenging as there is only a cold shower (SR is an expensive place to stay!), so various expletives emerge from the bathroom at shower time!
It was time to hit the temples the next day and hit them we did, with the help of Mr Chen and his 2 seater chariot pulled by a motorbike. He was an older gent with a huge smile and a white sunhat that he would wave at us when we emerged from a temple. He showed us around for 3 days and it was sad when we said our goodbyes.
Day 1 took in a sunset, day 2 sunrise & sunset, and day 3 an outing to an out of the way place plus a sunset, so we were exhausted but exhilerated at the same time and didn't feel templed out or rushed as we had a 7 day pass, so took our time.
I cannot describe the place except to say that it touches your soul. It is incredible, moving, amazing etc........
Today we hired two cheeky chaps and their motorbikes to finish off the temples and revisit those that we especially liked. We then treated ourselves to a final, wonderful sunset at Angkor Wat. The place makes your spine tingle.
Angkor aside, Siem Reap has played havoc with our emotions as there are many beggars, many landmine victims and a lot of tourist money, posh hotels and ritzy bars, all of which we feel sit uncomfortably together.
We have generally avoided these places prefering to eat in the market (although on one occasion, beans on toast with HP sauce was just what was required!).
We visited the landmine museum started by an ex Khmer Rouge child soldier who has devoted his life to demining the Cambodian countryside and caring for children, the victims of landmine accidents. A very moving experience.
Another moving experience was attending a cello recital by a Swiss Dr interspersed by footage of the plight of child health in Cambodia, especially Dengue haemorrhagic fever. 9000 cases this year, but this doesn't make the news as it affects the poorest children whose bodies are weakened by TB. The hosp in SR is state of the art, funded by donation, much of it the result of fund raising by said cello playing Dr. Interestingly, it costs $150 to treat each child with DHF, but he is told this is too much........by those who stay at the posh hotel next door to the hosp whose cheapest rooms are $320 a night! Food for thought indeed.
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