Escape!
Trip Start
Nov 15, 2007
1
14
16
Trip End
Jan 22, 2008
Delhi,
India
Thursday, December 20, 2007
It's like they've given the Dorchester to Basil Fawlty to run. The building itself is great, lovely colonial style, imposing marble foyer, selection of bars and restaurants and stylish,well-appointed rooms. However, the service was comedic. Please can somebody out there explain why I should move rooms just to get a double duvet on my bed? Please, anybody? None of the four staff involved in servicing this seemingly simple request could. And why would they think it's acceptable to ask their guests to move tables halfway through their breakfast so they can hang some (authentically Hindi) Christmas decorations?*. They made two attempts to make me tea and both times it was like drinking the first stuttering efforts of a professional poisoner in training.
Actually saying that, they may actually have been trying to poison me as I came down with my worst case of Delly Belhi yet, which was more like a complete immune system shutdown. Bad enough that I couldn't complain about the service when I checked out (somewhat difficult when just standing up is proving to be a problem).
Sorry Delhi, I gave you every chance to show that your denizens aren't all either cheating bastards or lazy idiots (the people I dealt with were generally one or other but rarely both) and you failed.
At this point I should say that I was feeling bad about delivering so harsh a judgement but having a dig around the blogosphere~ and talking to people who've been to Delhi, it seems that my opinion is fairly standard. (People are similarly critical of other many parts of India - the one place that seems to be universally adored is Goa.)
However, Delhi is an exciting place. You don't need to go to the obvious tourist traps to see amazing sights because they're all around you wherever and whenever you are. Walking around Karol Bagh late one evening was how I imagine Dickensian London would have felt. Being in a tuk-tuk on the roads of Delhi is like a roller coaster with the volume turned up to 11. The looks on the faces of the locals as you ride the Metro makes you feel like a celebrity. At one point in the Paharganj, I just stood on the spot and rotated slowly for a few minutes. Each time I turned, there was something new going on and it was impossible to take it all in. Go to Delhi for an experience and a challenge but don't ever think you're going there for a holiday.
* talking of which, I'm a real bah-humbug when it comes to Christmas. Or rather was. Sometimes you have to lose something to appreciate how much you love it and that was certainly the case being in Delhi during advent. I used to wonder at the idea of pulling a perfectly good tree out of the ground and watching it rot in your living room covered in shiny plastic shit.^
However, this year I missed everything, the lights, the decorations, the parties, the anticipation of a well-earned break with my folks. Even the lack of cold winter weather and crass comercialisation were tugging at my heart-strings. The token gestures in the more upper class districts of Delhi weren't any kind of substitute. So next year I'll be doing Christmas properly. I promise. Even if it does mean killing trees.
^ and don't try to tell me those plastic trees are any sort of substitute
~ sorry, I'll wash my mouth, er fingers out with soapy water for using such a hideous buzzword
