Its been exactly a year since I last saw my parents and though we talk every week, I can't wait to see them in the flesh. We have been talking for weeks, no..months, about this trip and I am excited that I actually talked my Dad into coming over to Europe!
Germany was extremely kind to my parents in all aspects BUT the weather. Last year this time, I landed in Deutschland to 80 and 90 degree weather, full sun, with maybe some afternoon rain showers that made it even hotter with the humidity. Of course, I tell my parents this and they pack appropriately, especially since on the last leg of this trip we will be in Italy where it will be without a doubt warm. So what comes in the day before my parents arrive, but a front so cold, that they have snow in the South. We didn't get snow here, but it was still much more bitter than it should be for June. My poor mom was wearing everything in her suitcase at once in order to go outside the hotel room!
So in spite of my parents having a bit of jet lag (Mom more than Dad, he was gung ho every morning... 6 am or earlier...) I gave my parents the tour of Bielefeld (it only took a few hours, its like giving a tour of Petaluma...) Their hotel was situated in the middle of the Altstadt (old town). Like every German town, there is a designated shopping area (Einkaufszentrum) in which there are no roads for cars. And Bielefeld's happens to be linked to the Altstadt. Which gives them the opportunity to see some of the older building. The buildings that actually survived Allied bombings in WWII are from the 1400s. Unfortunately there are only a handful, but all of them are still in use as they were when they were built. One is a pharmacy that celebrated 350 years in business last year. The bakery I go to regularly has the timbers inside exposed as well as peep window into the cellar to see the original foundation. I think the highlight of the tour was of course the Sparrenburg. This is the castle that resides on the hill overlooking Bielefeld. It is the same one that is basically in my backyard. It has a big tower and a restaurant that we had the pleasure of eating at. I had originally wanted to take them there for dinner, but when we were up there exploring a storm blew in and the heavens opened upon us. We made a run for it into the restaurant and ended up having lunch while waiting out the storm. So now my parents can say they ate like a King in his castle (or Baron as the case is in Bielefeld).
At the end of the week, we took a train to Koblenz to enjoy some of the wine country as well as visit a special museum for Dad. Marty was to meet us a couple days later and from there we would travel together into Italy with stops in Frankfurt and Basel. So our train ride took about 3 hours, but was first class the whole way. Dad particularly enjoyed the local train because it was a double decker and we sat upstairs with a beautiful view over all the trees. He stared out the window the whole time.
We talked about how similar the landscape looks to home, because it really does other than the way the houses are built. The farm lands, the fields, the stands of trees. The difference is that Germany does not have the same sprawling track housing. They restrict building to only within designated areas and then that's it. They are serious about preserving green spaces and so because of the lack of space for building, people live in flats or apartments more often than single family homes.
Koblenz was just as cold as Bielefeld unfortunately, but that just gave us an excuse to go shopping for Mom. But that had to wait until the next day. Our first day was dedicated to Dad. We checked into the hotel, ate a wonderful buffet lunch at the hotel and then went straight to the museum Dad wanted to see. This museum holds one of the largest collections of military vehicles, tanks, even submarines and airplanes. It is essentially an airplane hangar filled with so much stuff that you cannot see where it ends from where it begins. The museum has sawed tanks and submarines in half so you could see the inside. It was actually really interesting. They had not only German items, but also American, British, Russian, basically the whole world was represented. It was impressive. Needless to say we were there for a few hours. Mom was done after only 1 and 1/2 or so, but luckily they had benches for the "wives". My favorite pieces were the guns from the 1600 and 1700s. The looked like something Captain Jack would be usuing in Pirates of the Carribean. Yaaarrr matey.
So the next day, Mom and I went shopping. She just felt a bit uncomfortable wearing layers of summer clothes. When you have so much on, one feels a little stupid, dumpy if you will, and this was her first European trip. Everyone must be fabulously dressed and enjoying exquisite cuisine and riding scooters while sipping a Capuccino. In spite of the weather (a bit rainy), we enjoyed ourselves. Especially since she bought the greatest raincoat. It was this bright rosy color. Like the rosy cheeks of little kid. It looked so great on her and brightened all of our day. In the same store, she found basically a wardrobe for winter in California, even though she would be wearing it in June in Germany! Needless to say she looked great the rest of the trip. So we went back to the hotel after our excursion and she did a little hemming of her new pants while Dad and I went for a run along the river front.
Koblenz is located on the river Rhein as well as our hotel, which made for easy access to the paved walking path that runs the length of the river in town. We ran to one end and back, with a scenic side trip in the middle. We were gone for a little over an hour, but it was fun to explore while exercising. We both ran long enough to get a second wind and even a third one going. The houses along the river front were magnificent. A few were for rent to tourists, but most of them are old mansions with a view. The gardens were full of old Rhododendron Trees (yes trees they were huge!) and beautiful statues.
There was also a vineyard in the middle of it all. A quiet little oasis next to the bustle of the city and the river. That night we decided to go there for dinner. When the weather is nice it must be beautiful to sit outside. The courtyard was full of old vines and hanging flowers and comfortable benches perfect for wine drinking and conversing with old and new friends, but that would have to be for another time, as it was cold and on the verge of rain yet again. So we ate inside. We had an assortment of traditional German dishes as well as an Apfelflammenkuchen for dessert this is basically a green apple and mild soft cheese (like Gouda) melted and cooked in a wood oven on flat bread. I am pretty sure the pour cream over it too, since they seem to do that with every dish here. (Honestly, I have never seen so much cream used in every recipe in my life. I can't cook with it, its just too much...) The wine was excellent and homegrown. And sometime during dinner, the first rays of sun peaked through the clouds. Finally! After we had to go for a walk before going back to the room. The clouds had cleared somewhat and we just had to enjoy the evening. Our bellies were so full that a little walk felt right. There is so much history in the area and I had not noticed all the plaques everywhere (in addition to early German History, before this Koblenz was also one of the Northernmost territories of the Romans).
We finally made it back to the hotel and I then went to pick up Marty from the train station. He was nice and relaxed after enjoying a nice first class seat all the way down, and ready to start his vacation.
The next morning Dad and I woke up early for another jog before breakfast. And then we all had breakfast together and set out to explore a little bit. We walked all the way to the "Deutsches Ecke" which means German Corner. This the corner where the River Mosel meets the River Rhein. On the corner is a huge statue of Kaiser Wilheim and also a water front boardwalk with rides and games and the like. We enjoyed the walk by partaking in that wonderful German right of being able to drink beer just about anywhere including on the street. We picked out a few different beers for Marty and Dad and Myself and then had a bratwurst as well. We then actually found ourselves a nice Cruise on the Rhein. It would last about 4 hours and we would take a ride all the way down to the Cliffs of Loralei and back. For those that have not read about the cliffs, they are located at a turn in the Rhein where at one point in time it was precarious, I guess when boats were not motorized, as the current and the siren song of Lorelei, if you got to close to the cliffs, could turn you over and would drown you. We of course did not have this problem...The cruise was lovely. I had no idea how fast the Rhein moves, but it is really quite a ferocious river. There are not too many rapids as it is dredged regularly, but the speed at which the water travels was quite incredible. In addition, there are so many castles looming over the cliffs on the way down. Every Baron at one point or another wanted a piece of this fertile valley and it shows. Apparently there is supposed to be even more castles on the leg of river south of us between the Loralei and Mainz.
In any case, were very satisfied with our adventure. We drank wine on the Rhein and contemplated the history, which includes our own, by the way. Between 30 and 40 years ago, my mothers parents took a cruise on the Rhein with friends. It was really cool to be able to experience a little bit of the same and raise a glass in toast to history near and far.
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Koblenz Hotels
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