Australia - Kununurra (Bungle Bungles)

  Kununurra, Australia
Monday, May 1, 2006

Day 1

With one more unsuccessful attempt to get a Bungle Bungles flight from Halls Creek we departed at 8:30 to continue our journey to Kununarra.

The journey produced even more dramatic scenery as we continued our way through the Kimberley region (PICS) including the rather obscure looking Boab tree which is indigenous to the Kimberley region (PICS) The boab is a large spreading tree up to 15m high with branches that radiate from the top of the swollen barrel like trunk that can be up to 20 metres in circumference.



Reaching Kununarra we crawled into the 'Alligator Airways' office; another Bungle Bungles air tours specialist, and proceeded to book a flight over Lake Argyle and the Bungles for 6am the following morning.

Main objective achieved we called in at the visitor centre to pick up yet more brochures before popping to the bank and supermarket in town and then on to the campsite to while away the rest of the afternoon.

On checking in at the campsite we were informed that the road to Katherine, which were planning on taking the following day straight after the flight, was closed due to flooding; up to 13 metres over the road in places! As Gizmo wasn't fitted with scuba gear we decided it might be best to book into the campsite for two nights which would allow us the luxury of lazing around by the pool all afternoon after the flight the next day.

This particular campsite, the five-star rated Ivanhoe Village Resort (PIC), was one of the nicest we had stayed at since buying Gizmo. The campsite is part of the Big 4 group which we became members of whilst in Bunbury. Big 4 have over 140 campsites across Australia all of which maintain a high standard of service, facilities and cleanliness (most have pools and BBQ's and some even have a spa and games room as well). As and when we are in a town that has a Big 4 we have made a point of staying there as the membership entitles us to a 10% discount and we know that we can rely on it being the best campsite in town. The membership costs $40 for two years, but we have easily recouped that cost already with discounts. We are even entitled to campground discounts in New Zealand, USA and Canada and an array of other services and benefits such as discounted tours, attractions and car hire across Australia.

After showers and a BBQ we bedded down for an early night in preparation for our 4:45am wake-up call.


Day 2

No amount of preparation could have readied us for the shock of getting up at the ridiculously early time of 4:45 when it was still dark outside, every other sensible person was still fast asleep half way through a good nights rest and even the birds were still tucked up in bed.

Our 5:30 pick-up took us and our four other fellow passengers to the air strip and we were airborne by 6:15am. The flight began by circling back over the Kununarra area taking in the irrigation dam (PIC) and surrounding farmland (PIC) and then opening up to the Osmond Range and Ord River.



The farm land and range eventually gave way to the vast expanse of Lake Argyle (PICS) which is so huge (72km long) that it is classified as an inland sea. It is actually a manmade lake caused by the damming of the Ord River to capture rain from the wet season in order to sustain the irrigation land around it through the lengthy dry season.



The flooding of the area to create Lake Argyle has produced a series of small islands which were actually the peaks of the hills that are now submerged. One such Island is known as Crocodile Island (PIC) because of its shape and there is another one known as Zebra Island but not because of its shape. It is actually the only source in the world of zebra rock; a distinctive reddish-brown and white banded ornamental stone (PIC).

Bordering Lake Argyle are the Carr Boyd Ranges which were formed by shifting plates which have forced the land over one another creating a wave effect (PIC).

Finally the immense Bungle Bungles Range unfolded in front of us (PICS) unfurling its beauty and splendour before our eyes...and camera. The unique appearance and composition of the ranges really do have to be seen to be believed.



The range is regarded as one of the most fascinating geological landmarks in the whole of Australia, the orange and black stripes across the beehive-like mounds, encased in a skin of silica and algae, are clearly visible as you approach. As you sweep further over the range a hidden world of gorges and pools is revealed including a meteorite crack (PIC) created over 250 million years ago.



These sedimentary formations were deposited into the Ord Basin 375 to 350 million years ago, when active faults were altering the landscape. The distinctive landforms seen today have been produced by uplift and erosion during the last 20 million years. Contrary to its solid appearance, the sandstone is extremely fragile.

Two of our party were doing the land tour (an extra $250) so we had to put down on the edge of the Purnululu National Park (aka The Bungle Bungles) to drop them off, affording us a short break to stretch our legs (PIC).

Back in the air we rounded the other side of the Bungle Bungles, crossing the Carr Boyd Ranges once again until we reached the Argyle Diamond Mine (PICS). The Argyle Diamond Mine is the world's biggest producer of natural diamonds and contributes approximately one-third of the world's natural supply, including the very rare and expensive pink diamond which can be sold for up to a $1,000,000 per carat.



When constructing the mine, and supporting infrastructure, the owners put an airstrip (PIC) (to ferry contractors to and from Perth) on the nearest available section of flat land. The area is so rich in natural resources that they have since discovered that there is up to $60 million worth of diamonds under the airstrip. The irony being that it would cost a similar sum to relocate the airstrip so it is unlikely that the diamonds will ever be unearthed.

Tour over, we set back down on terra firma (PIC) and got delivered back to the campsite at a time when we normally would only just be getting up and ready. Luckily this meant we had plenty of time to indulge in a scrumptious pancake breakfast before spending the rest of the day luxuriating by the side of the pool and spa.


Day 3

Feeling rejuvenated from our relaxing day in the sun we woke early and embarked on the onward 500km+ journey to Katherine. The excursion took us past the amusingly named 'Dick Creek' which was evidently an apt name judging by what we saw submerged in the river (PICS).



In two very much contrasting sights we passed both a flooded river (PIC) and yet another bush fire (PIC). Perhaps not the wisest or safest move but we found ourselves extremely short on fuel and were forced to refill from our jerry can next to said bush fire! (PIC). The fires obviously produce a smorgasbord of BBQ'd delights as numerous eagles circled overhead waiting for dinner (PIC)...or perhaps it was actually us that they had their eye on!?