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  Port Washington, New York, United States
Sunday, July 15, 2007

We made it up the New Jersey coast without incident.  We were up at 0530 and had cranked the diesel by 0600.  We encountered a favorable current and found ourselves anchored at Atlantic Highlands (Snady Hook, New Jersey) by 545 that night.  We had nice anchorage and it was pleasantly cool.  We had completed an 83 mile day, one of our longest.

That evening, we worked diligently to figure out how to make it through New York harbor.  I had read stories about racing ferries, massive tankers, ruthless tug captans and who knows what else.  In reading the cruising guide, we found that we would encounter up to a 5 kt tidal flow at Hells Gate unless we timed it well.  Since we travel at 7kts normally, this would be a problem.  So in studying the charts and looking carefully at the tide calculations, we figured we needed to get to the NY Battery about 4pm.  Using the chartplotter computer, we back-sheduling and concluded that we needed to leave our NJ anchorage at 1:15pm. 

That morning, we walked into town at Atlantic Highlands and had a good walk..  Exercise is a real issue when you world is 40'x15' and a good 2-3 mile walk was in order.  We added to the exercise by carrying back a half case of wine and lots of groceries. 

So at 1pm we start to pull the chain up and as it happens someone in a Krogen 48 had just anchored right on top of our anchor.  This was brainless act as anyone would have known that our anchor was in that place.  Happily the captain moved and we were off heading toward Manhattan.  We were making 8kts with a favorable current as I watch the commercial traffic to our starboard....a super tanker and a tug pushing big badge...all of us are heading for the same bridge.  I thought silently, "here we go already....this is going to be tough".   VHF channel 13 (commercial) was so packed with chatter, I could not tell one ship from another.   

I hugging the port side of the shipping lane as our speed slowed to 6kts as we found the current on the nose.  I didnt care about speed only collision avoidance.   To me, safe boating is alot about avoiding the supid mistake and I didnt want to make one.  I just kept watching as the tanker and the badge move closer.  In the distance the Statue of Liberty is small but getting larger..but not as large as the tanker.

Finally we are in NY harbor and the tanker appears to be wanting to cross to our side and we actually want to be on the other side.  So I hail the cap'n on the radio, "Capt, we are the small power yacht on your port side, we would like to cross the channel.".   The radio crackled back, "yes you can captain, move ahead" and before you know, we had crossed 500 feet in front of a 1000' super talker....wow.   This kind of stuff really gets your blood pumping and your palms sweaty.

We could see the Battery ahead as Sue took over the wheel.  I ran between vantage points on the boat providing information...."hot ferry coming from the port side...slow down"...or "no threats".  Before we knew it, we were at the Battery and looking at the amazing sights of Manhattan.  This was really a kick.  I've flown over this area a dozen times, but seeing the statue of Liberty and Ellis Island was really a striking sight from your own boat.  It made us think how the absense of the twin towers would be so 'in your face' every day if you worked here. 

Then we turned to starboard and entered the East River.  Traffic somehow vanished.  We began to relax and to enjoy this amazing cruise through one of the world's great cities.   This was an amazing kick. 

Soon, we were gliding past Hells Gate with a 2 kt lift.  We had timed it perfectly and no traffic at all.  We went by the United Nations wondering what all the people in that big building could do with their time and accomplish so little.  Surely someone called a meeting when they saw us go by.  A boat in the east river with "Scottsdale, Arizona" on the transom can't be normal!

Then came the real "you know you are in New York".  Im listening to the radio when I hear about two power boaters yelling at each other on channel 16.  "dont cut me off...you....[crackle]", said the first.   "Yeah, Im getting pictures of you and send them to the coast guard", said the other.  "Do that and I'll come and get you", snapped the other.   "Come and get me....I'll take care of you", was the final exchange.  I knew I was in New York.

By 6:30 we entered the planned anchorage of Port Washington NY.  We were on Long Island.  We had successfully navigated New York harbor.  Sue and I had smiles of amazing proportions as we opened a bottle of wine.  This was an amazing day.

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