The Maasai and I

  Mwanza, Tanzania
Wednesday, August 6, 2008

One of the things that has greatly enriched this experience for me is our Maasai guards (or askaris), in particular Ema. Even though his English is limited and my Swahili is more limited (though improving everyday), we use my Swahili book, simple phrases and gestures. We are also teaching each other our languages.   When I think about it, I am quite amazing at how well we are able to communicate. A very natural friendship full of lots of laughter has developed.  It is a friendship reminiscent of childhood when the world is new and the just saying the word "underwear" is funny. In fact, I often feel seven years old when hanging around Ema.

Language Lessons with Matehu

At first it was interesting to witness Ema and Matehu mix Maasai tradition with western culture. During the day they typically wear western clothes even sporting American labels.  At night they revert Maasai attire complete with weapons, such as spears, bows and arrows, clubs, and large knifes.  However at all times they carry their cell phones.  One of my first days in Buswelu, Michelle and I stayed home while our roommates stayed out and decided to stay in town at friends.  We had not even been given keys yet as new ones needed to be made. Not knowing that the rest of the housemates would not be returning, we had locked the padlock on the door. In the morning we were both locked into the house without a phone.  It was such a cultural paradox to borrow a cell phone from Ema and then have to have him show me how to send a text message on his model.  So in that instance their phones were helpful, but often they drive is crazy too.  I do not know how many ring tones a Maasai needs, but they have so many more options than exist on my home phone and often they will scroll through them for hours. Often their friends come over to the house and Maasai gatherings run late into the night.  Earplugs usually block out the noise as I remind myself that no one will mess with a house known to have lots of Maasai hanging around.
 
For a while I have been trying to write a blog trying to capture living with Maasai, but have struggled in making it come together.  Before I left, I ordered my five-year-old nephew, Nick, a children's book called "The Maasai and I". Though I actually haven't read the book, I thought it might be fun to write my own version, and dedicate it to Nick. I included a Swahili glossary at the bottom with the Swahili word, pronunciation and English translation.

 
 
The Maasai and I
 
Ngorongoro Crater is where the Maasai call home.
It's the beautiful land where the animals roam.
They send their family the money they're paid,
With the Maasai as our guards, I am never afraid.
 
We became friends over a dish of beans with rice
A small conversation developed into something so nice
I learned my name in Swahili is Tangawizi
But when I tell people this they think I am chizi.
 
Ema likes to shop for wives in Bride Magazine
He offers more livestock than for African queens.
One thousand cows plus two-hundred goats
When he likes her a lot he sings with his throat

Ema & Friend, Peter, Wife Shopping

 
One day, I rode on the back of a pikipiki
Pedaled by Ema my new rafiki
At home we found the perfect song
Watch out Ema, the dance-off's on.

Target Practice

They have taught me Maasai warrior skills
Shooting a bow at a tree and other such drills
Followed by a lesson on spearing a lion
I think it I met one, it'd be me that was dying

Ema Spearing a Lion

All night they busy themselves with their cell phones
It's hard to sleep when they play with the ring tones
Eating and washing by the light of their torch
At dawn they go to sleep on our front porch
 
One night, Michelle walked in when I was dreaming
The light she shone scared me and I started screaming
Ema ran to the window to save the day
"Tangawizi, Tangawizi, are you OK?"
 
Buswelu is safe, but it's nice to know they are there
And during the evening it's laughter we share
When the time comes to say my good-byes
I will so greatly miss my friends, the Maasai.

The Maasai (Ema 2nd from left, Matehu, middle)

GLOSSARY
Tangawizi (tan-ga-wee-zee) Ginger
Chizi (chee-zee) Crazy
Pikipiki (pee-kee-pee-kee) Bicycle
Rafiki (ra-fee-kee) Friend