My Best Dance Partner

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  Mwanza, Tanzania
Friday, July 18, 2008

Friday, July 18

Michelle's birthday began like any other day in Buswelu. Sara, Jo, and I were the first ones up and we chatted while I drank my morning coffee. As Sara knows quite a bit of Swahili, I finally remembered to ask her for some tips on behavior management. I gratefully wrote down how to say "stop it" and "don't hit" before the birthday girl awoke. Over breakfast, Jako, Michelle, and I decided that in lieu of traditional classes we would play games to celebrate Michelle's birthday. I reasoned that by explaining the games in English, we would also be doing some teaching. On the way to the orphanage we brainstormed simple games that required no equipment and could easily be communicated.

The nursery children were still drinking their morning porridge, and the older girls were busy picking the heads of hundreds of tiny fish when we arrived

Dancing at HOM

. Even the boys were busy gathering and burning trash, so we settled down next to the little ones and visited while they finished their snack. It was not long before Mary grabbed at my bag and I scolded her with "Acha". She quickly set the bag down, and I realized I could now tell them to stop doing things in Swahili. I could motion and use English before, and I do believe they understood me. However, they would pretend they didn't. I reminded myself to keep working on my Swahili as it increased my clout.

We told the children we would play games instead of class and several began to yell "Mush Pot" and ran to sit down. Getting them in a circle was a bit difficult, but they definitely have grasped the concept of the game even if they still say "Mush Pot" instead of "Goose". The game was in full swing with Lulu chasing Sese when Sese tripped. Did Lulu trip Sese on purpose or was this the clumsy act of two small girls? I'd like to think it was accidental as both girls fell down. Sese lunged for Lulu smacking her in the head. As this was rapidly becoming a roll-in-the dirt type brawl. Jako, Michelle, and I all began to yell "Hupigi!" but couldn't contain our laughter at the three of us simultaneously yelling something that sounds so ridiculous. However, it worked and between fits of laughter, we managed to stop the fight.

We then gathered the children inside to play "Musical Bumps," as Michelle called it. Mama Gloria pulled out the stereo and attempted to hook it up to what very well may have been a car battery. The radio began smoking and she left in search of help. As we waited for the music, some of the boys began to dance to music in their heads. I began to copy them which sent them reeling with laughter, especially when I would imitate the way they would shake their bum

Jo and I doing the HOM Hump

. "Ginger, again, again!". Then I would dance and they would dance and we would all laugh. The Tanzanian music began and I managed to get all the children to sit by complimenting those we understood the English instruction. We explained the game and Mama Gloria translated the rules. Basically, dance when the music is playing and sit down when it stops. The last child to sit would be out until one child was left. This game was a huge success, and I have to admit that I had as much fun as the children. We played until it was time for us to go meet Sara and the other Watoto volunteers (sister orphanage) for lunch.

Michelle had decided that we would have chips mayaii, our favorite local food, for lunch. We went to Buswelu Corner, our neighborhood "strip mall". Every kilometer or so in the area around Mwanza, there are rows of small shops. Essentially these are just long rectangular concrete structures with several small square rooms housing pharmacies, hair salons, school supplies and little cafes. The cafes are slightly larger, but usually only have 1 -2 tables inside with most of the seating outdoors. There are always people around Buswelu corner working, sitting talking or waiting for the daladala. We settled around a large table and ordered our food. Michelle had videotaped some of the morning dancing and showed it with the others while we waited for our food.

One of the things, I have noticed during my time in Tanzania is that all used T-shirts seem to end up here

Margreth Jumping Rope

. People sport shirts from American universities as well as a wide variety of products and random pop culture. I saw one man the other week wearing a T-shirt that said "I love Mullets". I suspect he has never seen a mullet. Sara says she often asks people if they know what is on their shirt and usually they respond that they chose it for the colors. This explains why a man walked by during lunch wearing a shirt that said "Testicle Festival," on the front and "Let's Have a Ball" on the back. We began to laugh hysterically, and I realized that it was only one o'clock and my cheeks were already starting to ache from smiling.

We finished the best chips mayaii, I had yet to eat, and Jako and I subtlety tried to hurry Michelle back to HOM as Gloria had told Jako they had planned a party for Michelle at two. When we returned to the orphanage, the party preparations were in full swing. The adults and teens had blocked off the living area and were busily hanging decorations. I noticed the afternoon school children were all at home. Apparently Gloria was allowing everyone to play hooky to attend the party. The day before a package had arrived from my mother. It contained clothes and books for the children as well as balls, Frisbees, and jump ropes. We decided to pass out the new toys while we waited for the party begin. The children were definitely excited about the new toys. As I handed jump ropes to the older girls, I hoped they knew how to use them as I doubted my ability to demonstrate gracefully

Michelle's Birthday Cake

. Margreth and a couple of the older girls grabbed the long jump rope and Jako and I began to rotate it. I was utterly amazed as the three girls were able to jump all at once. I have never seen Margreth so happy and excited.

The decorating continued and we entertained the children with another round of Mush Pot as well as Red Light, Green Light. Finally at half past three, we were all called into the room. Brightly colored frabics draped the wall along with balloons. I also noticed that every decoration HOM owned must have been pulled out for the occasion. Christmas stockings and hats were hung and pink Easter bunnies were displayed on the table. The music cranked back on and again we were dancing. Hannah, Gloria and Joel's, eight year old daughter, grabbed my hands, and I did my best to do some swing dancing with her. In reality it was more spinning than swinging, but it was still un. I noticed that many of the children, especially the girls were dressed in what I suspect were their church clothes. Diana wore a white blouse and a long wrap skirt and looked so proud and pretty. Gloria unveiled a three layer cake she made and everyone sang "Happy Birthday!". Michelle cut the cake and then it was passed around on the bottom side of the Frisbees. Although Jako, Michelle and I had planned on leaving HOM that day, we stayed later as the celebration continued. It was wonderful to just dance with the children and see their excited faces enjoy the party. I began to think how hard it was going to be to leave these children, as I was beginning to love some of them greatly. I wished my husband, Mike, were there to dance and enjoy being a child again. And to experience the feeling of watching these children truly enjoy a slice of their childhood.

As six o'clock neared, we said good-bye as the orphanage would not be the only site of Michelle's birthday festivities. After a much-needed shower, Jo, Michelle and I headed to Tilipia. The sky had just changed from its hues of deep indigo to darker shades of night when we arrived. As we climbed the stairs to the restaurant, I saw the moon, large and full, rising just behind the rock-covered hills ringing the lake. It was a spectacular site and I stood there for a minute in awe before we ate yummy dinner and then headed down by the water to hear Jo's Australia friend, Pete, sign and play the guitar.

The rest of the night was just as enjoyable as the day. Again I found myself thinking of Mike and how I long to share this experience with him. I want him to meet the children and to hug the little ones as they run up calling our names each time we enter the compound. I wanted to him to meet my friends and enjoy a drink under the Tanzanian full moon. And mostly I wanted to join in on the laughter and joy we all were having as we danced at Tilipia.

In honor of Scottish Michelle's birthday, Pete played "500 Miles" by the Proclaimers. Michelle jumped up excitedly and a large circle of Ex-pats joined us in dancing. Michelle got in the middle and performed a quick Scottish jig while the rest of us belted out "And I would walk 500 miles" while jumping up and down. I thought of Mike and how I would be driving close to 500 miles to see him when I returned to the States. And as much as I miss him, he is gone and I am here, so for now I would dance. I smiled and looked around at this random group of people singing and dancing like no one was watching. Dancing and singing with them, I experienced one of those rare moments in life when I realize there is no place else I would rather be. One of those moments when I felt totally and completely comfortable in my own skin, almost like I was meeting my true self again. I jumped and spun and continued to sing not knowing I had been feeling lost until I that moment when I found myself again. And I realized that I always seem to find my true self when I am dancing. So I kept dancing with the best dancer partner I could find...myself. And I felt happy...truly happy.

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