Between a Rock and a Hard Place
Trip Start
Jun 18, 2008
1
11
24
Trip End
Aug 17, 2008
Mwanza,
Tanzania
Friday, July 4, 2008
We jumped out of the daladala one stop shy of "downtown". The main hospital in Mwanza, is located on one, if not, the highest hill in Mwanza. We opted to spend what amounts to about a quarter to take another daladala thus avoiding the ascent in the hot afternoon sun. This proved a very wise decision as we entered the hospital and climbed nine stories to the children's ward. A couple of times, I used the beautiful view of Lake Victoria as an excuse to catch my breath. Looking down to catch my first look at the famous water, I saw large rocks bordering the lake as well as protruded from the water Realizing I was losing the group, I rushed down the hospital corridor.
The main hospital in Mwanza, also housing the medical school, is supposed to be one of if not the best hospital in Tanzania. I still prepared myself for the worse, but the hospital was in much better shape than I anticipated. However, I did only see a small part of the children's ward (and later learned that patient care is a serious issue). Apparently over sixty percent of the patients in the hospital are AIDS patients. However, today we were there to visit children recovering from surgery. Rayalee has been working closely with one family in particular. In December, Silida, age 6 or 7, had been pushed into a fire during a child's game. There is no infrastructure to dispose of garbage in most places; therefore burning your rubbish is the only option (including at our house). I have also repeatedly noticed that the level of supervision children have in the States is nonexistent here as mothers spend all day working in the garden and on household chores while the fathers farm or work in the cities. In reality, I have been told that accidents rarely happen as the children learn at an early age to be careful. Unfortunately for Silida, she was an exception. We entered a room containing ten beds and ten children. Nyanza commented that this was her first visit were at least two children were not put in the bed together. Rayalee sat feeding Silidia, and I thought "these is the most horrible injuries I have ever seen." I am amazed she survived. Silidia has had both hands amputated as a result of the burns. Her head and arms were severely burned with additional burns on her leg. Covered in scabs, the wounds still appeared recent. Silidia had also lost her eyelids and her lips in the fire. Rayalee spent months convincing plastic surgeons from Australia to donate the first of many surgeries for Silidia. The little girl had just been released from the ICU after reconstructive surgery on her eyes and lips. Her face was still a mess of scabs and pus although everyone commented that she looked drastically better. Although still in the healing process, we were told she soon be able to close and blink her eyes. Without this surgery, she would have lost her eyesight. Sadly, her lips were not healing as well.
Nyanza and Rayalee pulled out puzzles, water paints, crayons, and paper. An impromptu party broke out as we passed them out to all the children well enough to participate. The children's parents gathered around happily watching their children smile as we played with them. I learned that it is very difficult on the parents to look after their sick children. Many of them have to travel from other parts of the country to bring their children to this hospital. In addition, they are unable to work as the hospital staff rarely enters the room. The parents have to take the responsibility to clean the bedpans and often forcibly get doctors or nurses to see their children. Rayalee had been spending an immense amount of time and money helping Silidia's father ensure that she had adequate care. Silidia's village is over twenty-four hours away by bus and her father has been with her in Mwanza since January. Rayalee has been helping him pay for a place to live and even paid for her mother to come for the surgery. Rayalee has also found that the hospital staff will often ignore Silidia's father unless Rayalee demands and dictates Silidia's care. Rayalee also purchases her medicine and shows Silidia's father how to use it. It has been an extremely frustrating process for her, but has been extremely critical for Silidia's recovery. And most children do not have someone like Rayalee to help.
After the children had exhausted the paper and Silidia had successfully put together a puzzle with her feet, we said our good-byes. On the way home, Nyanza, Michelle and I stopped at a local café for a soda. Nyanza further explained the enormity and difficulty of Silidia's situation. Besides the challenges of having to travel to Mwanza for future surgeries on her face, Silidia's family will never be given prosthetic limbs as that is virtually unheard of here. In reality, her injuries will deem her an outcast. Regrettably, Silidia will probably be forced to sit in the back of the classroom although she is very bright. Without hands and vast resources, Silidia will be a great burden to her family and her father fears will likely wind up a beggar on the street. Knowing that his daughter's chances for any chance of a normal life in Tanzania are impossible, Silidia's father actually asked Rayalee to adopt her. Everyone confirmed that Silidia has a wonderful, loving father, but he recognizes that the only way for her to have a better life is in the developed world. I have seen how Rayalee looks at Silidia and knows she truly loves that little girl. Rayalee, only nineteen years old, could not accept this responsibility. It must have broken her heart and filled her with guilt when she declined this impossible request. In reality, Silidia's situation would be difficult in any country. For the last, six months Silidia's father has spent everyday by her side and I can not imagine how painful it must been for him to decide she may be better off without him. Both Rayalee and Silidia's father had to make choices that I hope I am never faced with.
