The Elephant in the Camp

  Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania
Tuesday, June 24, 2008

June 24-25, 2008
 
We finished our Serengeti safari after a morning of watching lions hunt. Although we were disappointed in never seeing their success, it was still exciting to watch them stalk their prey.  We packed up our campground and left for our final destination, Ngorongoro Crater.  We would spend the night at Simba Camp A, on the crater's rim, and leave the next morning for wildlife viewing in the crater. As we neared the campsite, Sadi insisted that we leave all our food in the car warning us that wild pigs roamed the campsite at night and would smell any food in our tent. In addition, I opened my travel guide to read that at 7500 feet, Simba Camp was often "chilly and raw" at night. I had successfully survived three nights of camping, but wild pigs and raw weather might be pushing it.
 
The campsite was gorgeous though. We were now back in the lush jungle, and I could glimpse views of the crater through the trees.  A large mountain loomed to the south and for the moment blue sky prevailed. A rumor of hot showers circulated the camp, but realizing the lateness of the afternoon I wisely chose against this. At this point, my filth and that of my safari mates, just contributed to the adventure.
 
After the tents were set up, I headed to the latrine (no real toilets in the campground either) for a much needed stop.  As I approached the edge of the campground, I saw a massive figure lumbering through the trees. I paused, confused, as a large elephant thundered out of the jungle, past the outhouses to the large water tank. I stood less than ten feet from the elephant stunned.

Elephant in the Camp

Other campers began to walk over, calling excitedly to one another, as the elephant dipped his trunk into the tank. He repeatedly sucked up the water and then thirstily brought the end of the trunk to his mouth.  He drank while the crowd of campers snapped photos and then headed back to the forest.  We cautiously followed him to the camp's perimeter where he was joined by another elephant. They slowly walked around the edge of our camp followed by many of us until they disappeared from sight into the mist. 
 

Simba Camp ~7500 ft

During the time of the elephant's visit, the clouds rolled into the campsite enclosing us in a sea of fog.  I shivered, already wrapped in my two light jackets, and pulled on my beanie. Stella informed me that she had an extra pair of long johns from her Mt. Kilimanjaro hike, and I eagerly raced to put them on. As the sun receded, temperatures plummeted and we sought shelter in the dining cage sipping hot chocolate and coffee. 
 
While waiting on dinner, I chatted with Jane, a now familiar face from another safari group. She works for a NGO and has been working in and on Darfur for the last couple of years. It was an insightful conversation, and I temporarily forgot about the numbing in my feet.  We exchanged emails as dinner was served; and I thought, for not the first time, how fortunate I have been in meeting wonderful people.
 
Although the dinner conversation was fantastic as my companions and I now joked like old friends, it was simply too cold to stay up any later.  I unzipped my tent, looked at the elephant's drinking tank twenty feet away, shuck my head and crawled inside.  I was already wearing four pairs of socks, long johns, pants, a long sleeve shirt, two jackets, and a hat. However, my teeth still chattered. I pulled on a pair of pajama bottoms over my pants, followed by a long skirt.  I quickly took off my jackets and added two t-shirts to the top layer before hastily putting the jackets back on. I had unexpectedly found a pair of gloves in my raincoat pocket and gladly added those before climbing into the sleeping bag.  I thought once more of wild pigs and elephants as I popped in the earplugs and went to sleep. I only awoke once and found I had to plunge my cold head deeper into the sleeping bad. I thanked God for Stella and her long underwear as the temperature hovered just above freezing. Fortunately, I fell quickly back to sleep. I awoke feeling like a well-seasoned camper after surviving the night.  And quickly realized, as I giggled my way closer to the crater, that four days of safari had me feeling quite giddy. 
 
Before beginning our descent, we stopped at an opening in the crater's rim and gazed down into what some call the Eighth Natural Wonder of the World.  I could see hundreds, if not thousands of dots, representing individual animals grazing on the crater floor, and the excitement began to bubble over.

Ngorongoro Crater

As we slowly descended into the crater, zebra began to appear on the side of the road. And as we drew nearer to the bottom, I began to differentiate zebras from wildebeests. To be honest, I originally was not that enthused to see wildebeests. However, I became much more interested as I viewed them by the thousands. As we observed, some wildebeest lay, while others grazed, and a few aggressive males fought, ramming their horns against one another. 

Wildebeests

Zebra and wildebeest roamed together literally as far as the eye could see.  Despite the numbers, I never tired of seeing the zebras. At Serengeti, they were a little skittish around us, but here they stood right next to the vehicle, allowing us to scrutinize them up close.  I believe the zebras may be my favorite.  I love the kaleidoscope look of the herd and the contrast they play with the landscape.  All of the other animals blend in with their natural surroundings while the zebras still appear a fantasy creature that should only be found in one's imagination. I was thrilled with the presence of many of these magical beings.
 
The wildebeests and zebras continued as we drove nearer to Lake Magadi.  Like Lake Manyara, pink flamingos stretched across the lake. Through the binoculars, I was able to separate the pink mass into individual birds. Wildebeests and zebra lay in the foreground as the flamingos fluttered about in the water. It was truly an extraordinary sight. 

Zebras, Wildebeests & Flamingos

 
Occasionally stopping to catch distant views of lions, we drove in search of the Black Rhino, Africa's most endangered animal. As only 17 are left in the crater, Sadi warned us it was very rare to find them during the dry season when they usually migrate up the crater walls.  Luckily we were rewarded! Approximately 100 yards from the road, e spotted the strange silhouette of the black rhino. I watched the rare beast through my binoculars as it walked across the prairie and then marched into the distance. We had made out a cheetah hiding under a tree in the Serengeti, so out of the "Big Five" only the leopard would elude us.
 
Still coming across herds of zebra and wildebeest, I took in the sheer beauty of Ngorongoro Canyon.  The steep crater walls create a dramatic backdrop for all of the animals. The park was not without elephants and it was amazing to spot their massive shapes from hundreds of yards away.  We picnicked for lunch near a Hippo Pool and as we were far enough away from the smell, the green grass and surrounding trees added to my deep relaxation.
 
As the safari completed, I stood on my seat as Ngorongoro Crater ands Lake Magadi became distant. My waist banged against the sides of the sunroof as the Landcruiser twisted its way up the steep, bumpy road. Although slightly uncomfortable and difficult to stand, I wanted to soak in every last vista of Ngorongoro Crater and the safari. Despite the lack of showers, the hyenas, the wild pigs, and the raw weather, I am confident this safari will be one of the most extraordinary adventures of my life.  And although I know some travelers slept in beautiful, warm lodges complete with hot showers, I feel my experience was deeply enriched by camping outside among the animals.  I believe one should get dirty and be a little afraid on safari, besides this increases the anticipation of what surprises may lay in store, including an elephant wandering into your camp to share a drink.